Check around on this site and you might find what you're looking for. Check the links too!
http://www.ruavista.com/paulinho.htm

-LW

Here's Roderick Treece's version of the Dickinson Metal Works sign from the July meet.

Nice! Thanks for sharing it! -LW

Good, I'm glad you're still with me... The "pine cones", or are they artichokes?, will be carved in a "progressive peel" method. I'll start at the bottom row and carve the tips and let them fade to a surface etch at their base, then peel the next row and do the same, all the way ...

Good, I'm glad you're still with me... The "pine cones", or are they artichokes?, will be carved in a "progressive peel" method. I'll start at the bottom row and carve the tips and let them fade to a surface etch at their base, then peel the next row and do the same, all the way ...

Here is a (cruddy) photo of a sample piece I made to show various grade mica textures. The mica was sifted through a varying size mesh screen to produce the particulate size to create the various textures. All 4 were done with the mica process as outlined on the instructional pages from the Letterhe...

Ouch... Here's a tip... If your glue doesn't chip off completely, DON'T put it under a light thinking the heat will get it to chip. All it does is break your glass. :( Fix it the correct way, soak the glue off, and reapply. :D Oh, how many lesson there are to learn. BUT, good news! You can research ...

http://www.walljewelry.com/post/MMsignDetail.jpg Well, you can't readily water gild over sandblasted glass, it just doesn't stick. It has to be sealed first. I prefer to use Frog Juice as it is optically clear. After it's sealed, it can be either water or surface gilded. A water gild yields a nice ...

http://www.walljewelry.com/post/MMsignDetail.jpg Well, you can't readily water gild over sandblasted glass, it just doesn't stick. It has to be sealed first. I prefer to use Frog Juice as it is optically clear. After it's sealed, it can be either water or surface gilded. A water gild yields a nice ...

Can we start a column..."Just Ask Pat"...?

Thanks man....

-LW

David Trujillo once told me that extra-clear glass chips differently than standard green glass. Has any one encountered this? What is the difference? I haven't done any experiments as of yet....

...Pat probably knows...

After going round and round looking for a source for mica flakes in quantity, I found this place. Mike added it to the hard to find supplies list. Their prices seem quite reasonable.
http://www.micasnow.com/

I believe most open meets get listed here. The private ones...I guess it's who you know.
http://www.letterhead.com/events.html

-LW

It's most likely in the glass and can not be removed. You could just proceed and chalk it up to "character" of the piece. After about 5 years, you probably won't even notice it any more.

-LW

The photos in this post became disassociated with the text.
The photos have been re-added into a post titled, Hamilton Bank Note reverse glass sign Step-by-Step.
It had to be broken up into 5 parts due to the fact that the maximum number of pictures in any post is 12.

-Larry

The photos in this post became disassociated with the text.
The photos have been re-added into a post titled, Hamilton Bank Note reverse glass sign Step-by-Step.
It had to be broken up into 5 parts due to the fact that the maximum number of pictures in any post is 12.

-Larry

Hmmm.... That can be caused by a few different things. I am presuming that you're refering to mica etching. Did you follow the directions for mica etching as posted on the Letterhead site? ...It could be a time versus acid strength issue. If the acid is left on the glass to long, the glass that has ...

Execute the vision... sounds alright to me. Becareful of how you finish the background in that it doesn't overwhelm the subject. Mirroring it might be a bit much. I like to start with a line drawing. As I make the drawing I start to decide what techniques I am going to apply, along with considering ...

I pay right around $70 for a gallon of 48-52% lab grade HF. I would prefer to buy it by the quart, but it's around $36 a quart. My advice would be to buy only the volume that you will be using, price should be a secondary concern. I would also buy it from a reputable source. I wouldn't even buy a 5 ...

You're hooked....

-WB

In response to your question #3, I have used the technique of airbrushing a transparent glaze (transparent screen ink in varnish) over glue chipped areas, then water gilding it, as was done on the green fade in the letter centers of "Neptune". After the glaze is dry, it was water gilded wi...

We have a 15 HP dust collector, not sure of the CFM. The 12" duct into one of our booths will evacuate all the dust in about a minute. If I ran the cabinet without any of the other vents open, the brushes would be waving in the breeze. We hooked up the dust collection system prior to cutting th...

I used the Sealeze brush, product #SFG140BL, which is a 72" length (I cut it down) of a .020" filament 4-1/2" long bristle. It can be found on their chart at: http://www.sealeze.com/nylon.htm They also have a variety of extrusions to hold the brushes. I used the XTG680CLA. I put a bru...

Hey Dave... good to see you back on the board mate!

-LW

Hey Pat... turn off the TV and get back to work.

-LW

Wow! ...now on that letter "A', now how did they get it thatta way?

Any ideas?

-LW

Hi Raymond- I had that happen on my last one too. I had several places where the glue just didn't chip off. So I soaked it off, then painted an asphaltum border around it and flowed new glue over the selected areas. They chipped off fine and after cleaning you can't tell there was a patch job. In my...

I received this solicitation from a company that sells small quantities of HF. Evidently, they'll also dilute it for you too. Larry White, Just wanted to send a note that we would be happy to supply you or anyone you know who uses HF. We pack the material in small packages. We can also dilute the ma...

Is one of these murals going to be "Dickinson Metal Works"?

Hey Vance, perhaps you need to use a fine sand paper (I typically use 220), or perhaps try to use a "back and forth" motion as opposed to a vertical motion. If you leave your mask on, you could quickly reblast over any clear plinks. Another thought would be to use a finer grit when doing t...