Welcome to The Hand Lettering Forum!
This is an interactive Bulletin Board on the topics of Sign making, design, fabrication, History, old Books and of coarse Letterheads, Keepers of the craft. The Hand Lettering Forum features links to resources, sign art history, techniques, and artists profiles. Learn more about Letterheads at https://theletterheads.com. Below you'll see Mchat has been added as a live communication portal for trial, and the Main forum Links are listed below.
This is an interactive Bulletin Board on the topics of Sign making, design, fabrication, History, old Books and of coarse Letterheads, Keepers of the craft. The Hand Lettering Forum features links to resources, sign art history, techniques, and artists profiles. Learn more about Letterheads at https://theletterheads.com. Below you'll see Mchat has been added as a live communication portal for trial, and the Main forum Links are listed below.
Search found 324 matches
- Wed Jun 01, 2005 11:15 pm
- Forum: The Hand Lettering Forum
- Topic: transparent colors
- Replies: 8
- Views: 4594
Well, Sarah, here's what I did once. 1.) I sand carved a logo into a glass panel. Then I used some of the transparant inks that Rick sold, mixed them with a bit of varnish and airbrushed an even consistancy onto the glass. If you have a larger area, you could spray it with an HVLP. Rolling it on pro...
- Sat May 07, 2005 12:28 am
- Forum: The Hand Lettering Forum
- Topic: Milk Wagon, San Francisco, 1800's
- Replies: 7
- Views: 5858
I never had the benefit of going through an apprenticeship but in the early 70's when I was learning to paint signs there was a gentleman who helped me with the basics of lettering, gave me my first quill (used) and would always give me advice on layout, letter spacing and critique my feeble attempt...
- Sat Apr 23, 2005 9:26 am
- Forum: The Hand Lettering Forum
- Topic: Disneyland Hong Kong
- Replies: 12
- Views: 7625
Bruce, Sounds like my kind of fun! Hopefully it will go smoothly enough that the inevitable problems don't throw a kink in the joy of the work. I look forward to checking in periodically to hear how it's progressing. I've never worked for Disney but from the little I know I think you're probably qui...
- Fri Mar 18, 2005 11:40 pm
- Forum: The Hand Lettering Forum
- Topic: American Brewing Company sign replica...
- Replies: 2
- Views: 2160
- Fri Feb 04, 2005 10:17 pm
- Forum: The Hand Lettering Forum
- Topic: Painted Pictorials - Need Help
- Replies: 5
- Views: 3972
- Thu Dec 09, 2004 10:39 am
- Forum: The Hand Lettering Forum
- Topic: Thermal Pane ??
- Replies: 8
- Views: 6309
Rick, Sorry that my explanation was as clear as mud. Like I said, I’m trying to figure this out myself. If I understand correctly, putting a dark panel on the glass does increase your chance of breakage. However, if your dark panel does not cover the entire width of the glass and there is a gap on...
- Tue Dec 07, 2004 9:57 pm
- Forum: The Hand Lettering Forum
- Topic: Thermal Pane ??
- Replies: 8
- Views: 6309
Blind leading the blind . . .
Rick,
I’m not sure how much I can help in answering your question since I’m wrestling with a similar situation.
Here are some factors to consider, from my limited understanding:
1. A dark panel is going to absorb a lot of heat. If the panel goes from edge to edge, have it stop about ½†from each side. That will decrease your chances of breakage considerably. (I have a storefront with a bank of south-facing 48†wide windows. Each window has light-colored copy contained within a BLACK 15†high band across the bottom of the glass. The graphics are all vinyl, applied to the 4th surface, i.e. on the inside surface of double-paned glass. I cropped the black band about ½†from each side and have had no problems.)
2. An insulated unit like you describe should actually help since the double pane will insulate the inside window somewhat from the outside temperature.
3. If the glass is tempered, it is much less likely to break from temperature variations within the pane.
In a sense, this is the blind leading the blind. I’m going to piggyback (hijack?) your post with a question of my own.
I have a south-facing glass transom that I’ll be doing some work on. It will have glue chipping, gold leaf, burgundy drop shadows and a burgundy band across the bottom of the glass. I’m concerned, not only with breakage, but also with colors fading. I’m considering doing an insulated unit with tempered glass on the inside to insure against breakage (after I chip it) and either Low-E glass or laminated glass on the outside. I hear that laminated glass actually cuts UV light considerably because of the resin core.
If anyone has any advice regarding this and regarding Ricks situation, we would appreciate it.
Rick, I hope I didn’t smother your question with my verbose response. I was about to start a thread to get any thoughts on my job and saw yours with a similar concern so I chimed in here.
Dan
I’m not sure how much I can help in answering your question since I’m wrestling with a similar situation.
Here are some factors to consider, from my limited understanding:
1. A dark panel is going to absorb a lot of heat. If the panel goes from edge to edge, have it stop about ½†from each side. That will decrease your chances of breakage considerably. (I have a storefront with a bank of south-facing 48†wide windows. Each window has light-colored copy contained within a BLACK 15†high band across the bottom of the glass. The graphics are all vinyl, applied to the 4th surface, i.e. on the inside surface of double-paned glass. I cropped the black band about ½†from each side and have had no problems.)
2. An insulated unit like you describe should actually help since the double pane will insulate the inside window somewhat from the outside temperature.
3. If the glass is tempered, it is much less likely to break from temperature variations within the pane.
In a sense, this is the blind leading the blind. I’m going to piggyback (hijack?) your post with a question of my own.
I have a south-facing glass transom that I’ll be doing some work on. It will have glue chipping, gold leaf, burgundy drop shadows and a burgundy band across the bottom of the glass. I’m concerned, not only with breakage, but also with colors fading. I’m considering doing an insulated unit with tempered glass on the inside to insure against breakage (after I chip it) and either Low-E glass or laminated glass on the outside. I hear that laminated glass actually cuts UV light considerably because of the resin core.
If anyone has any advice regarding this and regarding Ricks situation, we would appreciate it.
Rick, I hope I didn’t smother your question with my verbose response. I was about to start a thread to get any thoughts on my job and saw yours with a similar concern so I chimed in here.
Dan
- Sat Dec 04, 2004 3:37 pm
- Forum: The Hand Lettering Forum
- Topic: Tempered Glass
- Replies: 9
- Views: 7138
Raymond, I've done glue chipping and frosting prior to tempering. There is always the chance that it will blow up during the tempering process, especially since the chipping will weaken the glass somewhat. You just need to be aware of the risk and, like Danny suggested, either do two pieces or allow...
- Mon Nov 22, 2004 9:27 pm
- Forum: The Hand Lettering Forum
- Topic: Window Gilding in Winter
- Replies: 6
- Views: 4988
- Sun Nov 21, 2004 10:54 am
- Forum: The Hand Lettering Forum
- Topic: Window Gilding in Winter
- Replies: 6
- Views: 4988
Window Gilding in Winter
Technical question here. I have a job coming up in January that involves doing some storefront window painting and gilding for a few windows in Telluride, Colorado. It's a high-mountain resort town and gets pretty cold there. I've had experience on a few occasions to do window gilding in the dead of...
- Wed Oct 13, 2004 9:00 am
- Forum: The Hand Lettering Forum
- Topic: M,A,N!
- Replies: 4
- Views: 4421
- Tue Oct 12, 2004 10:31 am
- Forum: The Hand Lettering Forum
- Topic: The Thing We Call "Handlettering"
- Replies: 16
- Views: 11694
Hey, Mike. I think your observations about what burns a memory onto our minds is accurate. However what I interpret Mark to be saying is not that hand lettering is the only thing about which one might be passionate, but that – this being the Handlettering Forum – it is something about which we c...
- Thu Oct 07, 2004 12:38 am
- Forum: The Hand Lettering Forum
- Topic: Signmaking 101... Flash Gilding with Mica Powder
- Replies: 2
- Views: 4262
Mica powder on glass
The only place I have used the mica powders is on glass. I apply it in a similar fashion to what is described above, using One Shot fast size. No need for the egg white wash since you are working in reverse on glass. Instead of a gilder's mop, I just use a foam brush and it applies it quite nicely. ...
- Mon Aug 09, 2004 1:46 pm
- Forum: The Hand Lettering Forum
- Topic: Signmaking 101: Smith's Cream - Techniques and Uses
- Replies: 1
- Views: 3180
Signmaking 101: Smith's Cream - Techniques and Uses
Danacolors Smiths Cream D406 works well for blending colors when painting a pictorial, a mural or just doing some decorative painting. I use this formula Bill Hueg wrote down for me and I've found that it always works. BLENDING CREAM (1 Quart): Mix equal portions of Boiled Lindseed Oil (1/2 pt.) Smi...
- Mon Aug 09, 2004 1:07 pm
- Forum: The Hand Lettering Forum
- Topic: Smith's Cream
- Replies: 5
- Views: 5357
- Fri Aug 06, 2004 8:45 am
- Forum: The Hand Lettering Forum
- Topic: Disaster!!!
- Replies: 12
- Views: 9553
Jeff, Your experience refreshes my repressed memories. In '98 I was working on a window sign for Cache LaPoudre Rifleworks. It was a project where I screen printed the black line art on the windows and then applied the gold leaf, pearl, pictorial etc. Decided since I had the screen I'd buy a nice bi...
- Wed Aug 04, 2004 12:57 pm
- Forum: The Hand Lettering Forum
- Topic: Goin' large again...
- Replies: 7
- Views: 7914
Glue chip tempered & lami
Thanks for the info, Larry. I think I'll try some chipping on some tempered glass just to see how it does. I realize I've taken your post in a different direction from where you started but here is one last thought: In my limited experience I haven't had any problems with tempered glass going throug...
- Tue Aug 03, 2004 9:17 pm
- Forum: The Hand Lettering Forum
- Topic: Goin' large again...
- Replies: 7
- Views: 7914
That is really beautiful, Larry. The blue split shade really sets off the silver lettering nicely. It's hard to tell from the photo but I'll bet the brown mottled background also works well with the blue shadow and the green border. Love to see it in person. I may be voicing my ignorance here but I ...
- Fri Jul 23, 2004 11:44 am
- Forum: The Hand Lettering Forum
- Topic: Signmaking 101: Mahl Sticks
- Replies: 15
- Views: 14051
DEFINITIONS: It occurs to me that, in order to avoid confusion, I should define our terms here. Definition #1: A Mahl Stick - A stick used by artists and sign painters as a rest for the hand while working. Definition #2 AMAL Shtick - Witty, tounge-in-cheek, huckster-style text used for announcements...
- Wed Jul 21, 2004 5:40 pm
- Forum: The Hand Lettering Forum
- Topic: Signmaking 101: Mahl Sticks
- Replies: 15
- Views: 14051
Harold Asmus, the gentleman who taught me how to letter, used a mahl stick that tapered and had a cork at the end, similar to Steven Parrish's stick described by Mike. Of course, I think the layers of paint drips added considerably to the weight of the instrument. A few years ago, after he died, his...
- Thu Jul 15, 2004 9:01 am
- Forum: The Hand Lettering Forum
- Topic: AHEM! Hand lettering!
- Replies: 9
- Views: 9264
- Sat Jul 03, 2004 9:49 am
- Forum: The Hand Lettering Forum
- Topic: AKA: Handlettering
- Replies: 21
- Views: 17713
Mark, What a great post. You've made the leap from learning how to send an email to starting a post! This is something I think about all the time. Yesterday while I was hanging a sign a bloke from England saw me and stopped to have a chat. Graham was traditionally trained as a signwriter in 1957, ev...
- Mon Jun 07, 2004 11:54 pm
- Forum: The Hand Lettering Forum
- Topic: Latex for backgrounds on flat painted signs
- Replies: 5
- Views: 5937
I usually apply my latex paints with a HVLP. I do need to thin it with some water and some floetrol or airbrush additive but it dries quickly and with 2 or 3 coats it turns out very smooth. Danny Baronian suggested sanding between coats when you roll. If I do need to sand, either with rolling or spr...
- Sat Apr 17, 2004 12:38 pm
- Forum: The Hand Lettering Forum
- Topic: Production of Glue Chip Samples...
- Replies: 5
- Views: 5965