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I am about to get back into leafing on glass and try out Steven Parrish's technique of screening the outlines and then backing it up etc...
I am curious what actual inks he used or others use for this purpose and also inks to avoid.
I was just looking on the Nazdar site and they do still offer Lacquer inks (7200) which I think I remember someone mentioning, and I saw they have an epoxy screen ink for hard to adhere to surfaces such as glass (ADE Series).
Here is my first job I did back in 1998.
Thank you again everyone.
Doug F.
FALLOUT Grafix
Port St Lucie, FL
Formerly from NJ, Formerly from VT,
Formerly from SF, CA, Formerly from NC,
Formerly from CO, FINALLY settled in FL!
Doug,
Steven used Laquer inks for many of his jobs. He loaded his squeegee and made one single pass, then cleaned up. He didn't have to worry about the screen drying out between passes, if that is a factor for you.
We used Dekor Gloss on some projects. It dried quickly enough and was a nice product (now called Sericol), however, it is self dissolving. We found that to be a problem when we screened a piece of line art and later overpainted it with fill colors, such as sky, grass, or building colors.
Regular all purpose screen ink is a pretty friendly product. It sticks to a lot of surfaces, dries a bit slower, but is still pretty hard and durable.
Mike
Mike Jackson / co-administrator Golden Era Studios
Vintage Ornamental Clip art
Jackson Hole, WY
Doug, You can use the new backup ink sold at Letterhead Sign Supply,
It is the same formula as the old Fine Gold Back-Up. We used it this weekwend on 30+ projects with no problems. 5-10% One Shot hardener should be added, and can be gilded over in an hour or less. Don't forget to add a drop of Ivory to your water size when gilding to a painted or printed line to prevent the size from crawling. Hope this helps
John, I would be fairly certain Ron is repackaging the Sericol ink. That's great because the smallest size the parent company sells is a gallon. A quart would last about anyone a long, long time.
The hardener would probably help a lot.
Mike
Mike Jackson / co-administrator Golden Era Studios
Vintage Ornamental Clip art
Jackson Hole, WY
I'm not John, but he was refering to "Ivory Liquid" - the dishwashing detergent. Just add a drop. I think it breaks up the surface tension of the liquid and keeps the size from crawling away from the paint/ink.
Raymond is correct, the soap acts to pull the gold to the line & not leave a gap that would otherwise show the back-up paint. One drop in the size will not cloud the gild. Ivory is the only one that does the job reliably.
I do use the Nazdar ADE Screen inks. They work great on glass and
dry in about 30 minutes. It works well if you use a paint mask for
outlines as you can roller on the outlines then peel out the letters to
be gilded. Let the ink dry, do the gilding and back up the gold.
Finally Peel off the rest of the mask and you are done.
My favorite way to use ADE screen inks is for mirrors. I have found
it will withstand all the washing and water from silvering. I do all
my work on the glass first then silver over everything. I also use it
for backing up mirrors. So far after two years of testing and still
no tarnishing.
It is a little more difficult to use than Sericol and harder to clean up
but for me it works very well.
Denver Chapter of the Letterheads