I have been messing with japan colors for quite a few years now on my carved signs and I do love them for thier fast drying oil based nature.
I do find they are different to work with than lettering enamels and I would like to find out how to use them better. My current use is mainly for pictoral work but I find, straight out of the can is less than moveable and with a little reducer they almost become too thin to use.
How do others use Japan colors, meaning application and or method and techniques? I do know they most likely have to be cleared over to give any more than a breif life to them.
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This is an interactive Bulletin Board on the topics of Sign making, design, fabrication, History, old Books and of coarse Letterheads, Keepers of the craft. The Hand Lettering Forum features links to resources, sign art history, techniques, and artists profiles. Learn more about Letterheads at https://theletterheads.com. Below you'll see Mchat has been added as a live communication portal for trial, and the Main forum Links are listed below.
This is an interactive Bulletin Board on the topics of Sign making, design, fabrication, History, old Books and of coarse Letterheads, Keepers of the craft. The Hand Lettering Forum features links to resources, sign art history, techniques, and artists profiles. Learn more about Letterheads at https://theletterheads.com. Below you'll see Mchat has been added as a live communication portal for trial, and the Main forum Links are listed below.
Ronan Japan Colors
Moderators: Ron Percell, Mike Jackson, Danny Baronian
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Japan Colors...
I pretty much use Japan color in all my glass work and have followed Rick Glawson's recomendation of using clear Fibroseal as a thinner and binder. I have found that it helps the paint to flow and cover better. I will also use Smith's Cream to extend the open time, especially when doing a blended or marble background.
One of Rick's old catalogs stated:
"CLEAR FIBROSEAL - This famous old product has long been a favorite with sign artists. It takes the place of all quick drying mixing varnishes. Clear Fibroseal is thin in body, flows free and dries in 30 minutes. All japan colors should contain a liberal portion of Fibroseal as both the thinner and binder in order to secure the best possible results."
Hope that helps.
One of Rick's old catalogs stated:
"CLEAR FIBROSEAL - This famous old product has long been a favorite with sign artists. It takes the place of all quick drying mixing varnishes. Clear Fibroseal is thin in body, flows free and dries in 30 minutes. All japan colors should contain a liberal portion of Fibroseal as both the thinner and binder in order to secure the best possible results."
Hope that helps.
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Rick...
...I had a dream about him just last night...he called me up here at my shop and he was giving me some advice on a project I was working on...
...ditto on missing him greatly.... -LW
...ditto on missing him greatly.... -LW
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If anyone's checking in here for the first time, or haven't check this page in a while, do it:
Rick Glawson page:
http://www.theletterheads.com/glawson/glawsonmain.html scroll down to Tips and techniques
Varnish descriptions:
http://www.theletterheads.com/glawson/varnishes.html
If you have a catalogue from Esoteric, thumb through it. Not only did it list the products but included what the material was best suited for.
Larry, did the advice help?
Rick Glawson page:
http://www.theletterheads.com/glawson/glawsonmain.html scroll down to Tips and techniques
Varnish descriptions:
http://www.theletterheads.com/glawson/varnishes.html
If you have a catalogue from Esoteric, thumb through it. Not only did it list the products but included what the material was best suited for.
Larry, did the advice help?
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...I haven't been able to find "poster" paint for years. It always (used to) cover well and hopefully (since I last bought any) has not had it's formulas changed - and is now covers poorly when thinned. I always thinned it so that it was very loose on the brush, and could be painted with quickly.
...As fa as I know, this paint is (was) intended for paper, card, and reverse glass work, and was not (really) for exterior use. ...I'd say, that if you want to use it outdoors and/or feel you need to clear it, you would be better off using regular ol' lettering enamel.
...As fa as I know, this paint is (was) intended for paper, card, and reverse glass work, and was not (really) for exterior use. ...I'd say, that if you want to use it outdoors and/or feel you need to clear it, you would be better off using regular ol' lettering enamel.
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Billy,
Check out :
http://www.mannbrothers.com/products/si ... poster.htm
They sell japans and poster paints, along with quite a few other less common paint lines.
Mike
Check out :
http://www.mannbrothers.com/products/si ... poster.htm
They sell japans and poster paints, along with quite a few other less common paint lines.
Mike
Mike Jackson / co-administrator
Golden Era Studios
Vintage Ornamental Clip art
Jackson Hole, WY
Photography site:
Teton Images
Jackson Hole photography blog:
Best of the Tetons
Golden Era Studios
Vintage Ornamental Clip art
Jackson Hole, WY
Photography site:
Teton Images
Jackson Hole photography blog:
Best of the Tetons