metallic powders added to clears

Matt Lamborn · Post by **Matt Lamborn** » Mon Jan 15, 2007 2:26 pm

Has onyone mixed dry metallic powders to clear lettering paint for shadowing or highlighting effects? If so...tell us what and how. I have tried this with Super Gloss Tinting Clear, Sign Restoring Clear, and UV Clear. Found that the UV clear is somewhat a little "brittle" and tends to chip a bit when not applied directly over an existing color but had great luck w/ the others. Thanx!!

Billy Pickett · Post by **Billy Pickett** » Tue Jan 16, 2007 12:45 pm

...I have mixed "bronzing powder" w. clears for reverse on glass work, w. very good results. It can be applyed heavy, or in multi layers for an opaque look. And in a thin coat it can be backed up w. 12k- 23k gold or aluminum foil for a more reflective, brilliant look.
One shot makes metallic paint in various colors that are great looking and perhaps more appropriate for surface work. Like "regular" OS gold, when using this paint, any brush strokes can really show and look not-so-good. But you can avoid this by spraying it w. an airbrush or "stipple" it on instead.
Using most any clear that will be exposed to ultraviolet rays can be disastrous, so be careful w. what you mix the powders with.

Post by **Danny Baronian** » Tue Jan 16, 2007 9:35 pm

Matt,

No suggestions for the carrier, but stay away from bronzing powders for anything used outdoors. Paint products containing bronzing powders will tarnish and darken outdoors, same with 1 shot with the possible exception of silver.

In place of bronzing powders, use mica powders. They come in a wide range of colors, can be mixed with any media, and will not tarnish. Mice powders can be found at Sepp Leaf, or Douglas & Sturgess in SF, CA.

Also check out Ronan Aqua Leaf. The display samples were the best metalics I've seen, and rated for interior or exterior use.

Danny

Matt Lamborn · Post by **Matt Lamborn** » Wed Jan 17, 2007 10:19 am

Thanks Billy Bob & Danny...

Easy Leaf Products has a very wide veriety of colored powders avail too. I like the Aqua Leaf as well.

Laura Butler · Post by **Laura Butler** » Wed Jan 17, 2007 10:58 am

Matt,
I bought Sepp's Mica Powders Sample kit. It has any of the earth tone or metal colors you could want. Thanks to Kelly T. for telling me this, but I then went to the scrapbook section of a hobby store and bought other mica powders in green's, blues, maroons. One color I can't find is RED. Still looking for that one.

Kelly Thorson · Post by **Kelly Thorson** » Wed Jan 17, 2007 8:20 pm

There is an interesting link on a restoration site that explains mica powders and how they are different from metallic powders as well as how to use them. Mica Information
*edited to stay more or less on track

Post by **Danny Baronian** » Thu Jan 18, 2007 12:37 pm

To keep in context: metallic powders added to clears: "Has any one mixed dry metallic powders to clear lettering paint" specifically deals with surface blending flourishes for antique carriage restoration.

Bronzing and mica powders have been discussed before, a forum search resulted in pages of links. Bronzing powders, made of brass, copper and tin will turn and oxidize outdoors reglardless of what clear is used. Mica will not discolor and is the ingredient for all metallics and pearlessents used in the auto industry due to it's stability.

Traditional scroll work and wagon striping was accomplished through brush work. Additions to the original, as sculpting would diminish the intent, and value of the original work.

If there is an interest in sculpting, a new thread under it's own heading could address those techniques. Use of any product such as magic smooth used as an add on feature or adhesive should be used with the understanding that like all epoxy products, outdoor applications get brittle at low temperatures and subject to failure. Information is listed on the manufactures website, Wesco Enterprises, Rancho Cordova, CA, or dealers such as Douglas Sturgess, and Tap Plastics.

Doug Fielder · Post by **Doug Fielder** » Thu Jan 25, 2007 8:39 pm

One more way of doing it....

I have done quite a few restoration striping jobs on antique Harleys and other bikes and found it was best striping first in Immitation Gold 1-Shot then after about an hour come back with a felt pad and your mica/bronze/etc... and pounce it on top and you will get a brilliant gold look, instead of the "gold paint" look. I have even burnished it to be almost like a mirror!
Quick and easy.
Good Luck.