Welcome to The Hand Lettering Forum!
This is an interactive Bulletin Board on the topics of Sign making, design, fabrication, History, old Books and of coarse Letterheads, Keepers of the craft. The Hand Lettering Forum features links to resources, sign art history, techniques, and artists profiles. Learn more about Letterheads at https://theletterheads.com. Below you'll see Mchat has been added as a live communication portal for trial, and the Main forum Links are listed below.
This is an interactive Bulletin Board on the topics of Sign making, design, fabrication, History, old Books and of coarse Letterheads, Keepers of the craft. The Hand Lettering Forum features links to resources, sign art history, techniques, and artists profiles. Learn more about Letterheads at https://theletterheads.com. Below you'll see Mchat has been added as a live communication portal for trial, and the Main forum Links are listed below.
Sign Painting the New Way
Moderators: Ron Percell, Mike Jackson, Danny Baronian
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Sign Painting the New Way
If you immediately thought: "Thats a book by Steve Prohaska! you're who I'm looking to ask a question or two. It's a very sharp book on how to paint signs in 1964 published by ST that describes many solid production style hand lettering tips. The big one is that he makes a case to do away with the malstick in favor of putting the heel of his hand directly on the substrate. John Parker mentioned to me that this book was important to him early in his career. Are there many others who took his teaching to heart? Is there someone who could say how much of an influence this book had back then? And what ever happened to Prohaska and his very convincing theories. It seems to me that this is one of the best books on efficient lettering. He really breaks down all the little moves and tries to modernize them a bit. What is the reputation of this line of thought and are there any other books which address the same points?
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I learned to paint using a mahl stick, based on watching two very good sign painters work. There are several problems with his theory. One: a left hander can't run his hand down the substrate once they paint a letter, unless they paint starting at the last letter and work backwards to the first letter. Two: a right hander learning his way would have a terrible time lettering on the inside of a window, if working from the first letter of a word to the last. Three, if the person uses a pounce pattern, dragging your palm or finger alongside the stroke would take the pounced lines away. Four: once you paint a word or phrase, it is very difficult to use the same technique he describes when outlining the same wet letters.
And then, it all falls down to personal preference. If it works for you, fine. Either way is okay.
There were quite a few books on sign painting printed about that time. Ralph Gregory and EC Matthews are two that come to mind. Duvall and Biegelenson are others.
Mike Jackson
And then, it all falls down to personal preference. If it works for you, fine. Either way is okay.
There were quite a few books on sign painting printed about that time. Ralph Gregory and EC Matthews are two that come to mind. Duvall and Biegelenson are others.
Mike Jackson
Mike Jackson / co-administrator
Golden Era Studios
Vintage Ornamental Clip art
Jackson Hole, WY
Photography site:
Teton Images
Jackson Hole photography blog:
Best of the Tetons
Golden Era Studios
Vintage Ornamental Clip art
Jackson Hole, WY
Photography site:
Teton Images
Jackson Hole photography blog:
Best of the Tetons
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Gregory and Matthews were recognized as the experts in the era and Steve Prohaska never seemed to take off with his ideas. One thing about that is that his methods certainly were not a "new" way. Card writers had always used the hand bridge or finger bridging method. Since tempera card colors dried fast, this was never an issue. Atkinson and other early authors mention using a hand-over method as an alternative. I started writing cards and lettering real estate riders and did not perfect using a mahl stick until I was allowed to do more gold on glass. Using the method that works best for you to produce with ease and in a timely manner is the answer.
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I'm one of those who never (until recently) used a mahl stick or any sort of bridging method....you know , hand over hand etc. It never occured to me there was any other way until I started hanging out with the likes of you guys. I did spend most of my time on a bench (flat) and still do with the exception of glass work. I still need a days practice to get used to the mahl stick. I also admit to owning "THE" mahl stick which most everyone knows about.
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Don't you just love them maul sticks ! I had a beauty, 3 piece, wooden with brass ferrals that screwed together, oh the hours of fun we had together ! Then one day I left it in a guys garage and never saw it again ! like loosing a friend, I have tried to buy his brother many times but am always disappointed. Now I use an aluminium 3 piece but the memories always go back to 'woody' !
Brian.
www.brianthebrushuk.com :
Brian.
www.brianthebrushuk.com :
With a stroke more imagination.
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Well, mahl sticks...still using 2/3rds of the my original 3piece slip together aluminum one, c1963. Been lost and found many times, run over, too, but last year lost the end piece to the Ladner Slough whilst lettering a boat. Didn't have my digital aluminum magnet on a string with me, so, call me short stick! UK B the Brush, picked up 2 of those wood/brass sticks in Sussex in '03, tho i only use one at a time )
I learned both stick and hand down showcard style, and use both when needed, and since playing around with striping, use a modified 2 handed hand down method doing small lettering(helps with the shakes, too lol)
well, nothing like a brush, eh
John
I learned both stick and hand down showcard style, and use both when needed, and since playing around with striping, use a modified 2 handed hand down method doing small lettering(helps with the shakes, too lol)
well, nothing like a brush, eh
John
"You spelled it wrong!"