I'm trying out some UV glue and have not used it before. I have everything finished and have left the areas open for MOP. I have the
MOP cut to shape allowing for about a 1/16" overlap which will be overlapping onto black back up. I know the glue will set when I expose
it from the front. My plan is to expose the front, then turn it around to the back and expose the back, thinking the UV will pass through
the MOP and harden the overlap that did'nt get any UV due to the back up. Am I correct on assuming this will succeed? This is on a two
tone boston gild.
Thanks, Jerry
Welcome to The Hand Lettering Forum!
This is an interactive Bulletin Board on the topics of Sign making, design, fabrication, History, old Books and of coarse Letterheads, Keepers of the craft. The Hand Lettering Forum features links to resources, sign art history, techniques, and artists profiles. Learn more about Letterheads at https://theletterheads.com. Below you'll see Mchat has been added as a live communication portal for trial, and the Main forum Links are listed below.
This is an interactive Bulletin Board on the topics of Sign making, design, fabrication, History, old Books and of coarse Letterheads, Keepers of the craft. The Hand Lettering Forum features links to resources, sign art history, techniques, and artists profiles. Learn more about Letterheads at https://theletterheads.com. Below you'll see Mchat has been added as a live communication portal for trial, and the Main forum Links are listed below.
UV glue
Moderators: Ron Percell, Mike Jackson, Danny Baronian
-
- Posts: 478
- Joined: Thu Apr 08, 2004 10:21 am
- Location: Monrovia, Ca.
- Contact:
Do a test of a drop of UV under some MOP and see if the light it passes straight thru the MOP, or how long it takes to sneak thru.
The glue will conduct the UV to a small degree, penetrating in from the edges, but this happens slowly as the glue tends the become a thin film.
Be aware that the esters in the glue can attack paint. I was repairing the windshield on my 1981 (early enamel based paint) F150 and the UV glue bottle leaked onto the hood and fried the paint immediately!
Pat
The glue will conduct the UV to a small degree, penetrating in from the edges, but this happens slowly as the glue tends the become a thin film.
Be aware that the esters in the glue can attack paint. I was repairing the windshield on my 1981 (early enamel based paint) F150 and the UV glue bottle leaked onto the hood and fried the paint immediately!
Pat
-
- Posts: 369
- Joined: Wed May 02, 2007 3:17 pm
- Location: pacific northwest
Everything seems to have worked just fine. No signs of paint failure either as of jet. I'm happy with results and the glue is of a nice consistancy to work with. After hearing of your truck hood I'll cross my fingers and keep a close eye. It's been drying for nearly an hour now and no signs paint being eaten up. Back up enamel is a lot tougher than paint so I'm assuming I'll be fine.
-
- Posts: 478
- Joined: Thu Apr 08, 2004 10:21 am
- Location: Monrovia, Ca.
- Contact:
-
- Posts: 369
- Joined: Wed May 02, 2007 3:17 pm
- Location: pacific northwest
Pat,
The UV glue I have came from letterhead sign supply. They only sell one brand. The consistency is kind of like karo syrup, quite sticky yet spreadable.
I used a lettering quill to apply it. Once spread onto both the glass and the mop and put together it does not slide, so for me it will work well for on site work. Curing time on the bottle says 1 to 2 minutes, I gave it 3 minutes. When I checked it, it appeared wet but was dry. Very glossy stuff. Anyway, I like it.
The UV glue I have came from letterhead sign supply. They only sell one brand. The consistency is kind of like karo syrup, quite sticky yet spreadable.
I used a lettering quill to apply it. Once spread onto both the glass and the mop and put together it does not slide, so for me it will work well for on site work. Curing time on the bottle says 1 to 2 minutes, I gave it 3 minutes. When I checked it, it appeared wet but was dry. Very glossy stuff. Anyway, I like it.