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Glue chip right up to sandblast etch

Hand Lettering topics: Sign Making, Design, Fabrication, Letterheads, Sign Books.

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Jeff Umsted
Posts: 37
Joined: Fri Apr 09, 2004 9:55 pm
Location: Lapeer Mi.

Glue chip right up to sandblast etch

Post by Jeff Umsted »

Hi all! I was thinking about how to do this and my brain has become blank. How would you have glue chip right up to sandblast etched with a nice sharp line? HMMMMM?

Jeff
Jeff Umsted
Lapeer, Michigan
Danny Baronian
Site Admin
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Post by Danny Baronian »

Jeff,

have you looked here?:

http://www.theletterheads.com/lhparts/gluechip.html

This has been discussed before, and the link above has more info regarding glass chipping in one area than any other I'm aware of. You should also look through the old letterhead forum:

http://www.theletterheads.com/wwwboard/


Danny
Danny Baronian
Baronian Mfg.
CNC Routing & Fabrication
http://www.baronian.com
Larry White
Posts: 1213
Joined: Thu Apr 08, 2004 4:18 am

Chipping up to edge of sandblasting

Post by Larry White »

The process defined by Pat Mackle is glue chipping up to the edge of a depth carved (sandblasted) design.

Rick Glawson described the process of chipping up to the edge of a non-depth carved sandblasted surface. However for the correct effect, the glass must be double chipped. The process is as follows:

1) Define both the sandblasted, glue chipped, and clear glass areas.
2) Apply ashaltum varnish over the entire piece of glass. (Only if there are clear areas in your design, otherwise, sandblast the entire glass and go to step 5.)
3) Mask off the glass over the asphaltum varnish revealing the areas to be the sandblasted and the glue chipped portions of the design and sandblast as usual.
4) Remove the stencil after sandblasting.
5) Apply asphaltum varnish over the areas that are to remain frosted glass. This can be done via stencil, screen print, or hand painted. (Remove stencil after varnishing).
6) Flow the glue onto the glass right up to the edge of the asphaltum as described in the "asphaltum method" instructions.
7) Allow the glue to dry and chip off.
8. Touch up any voids in the asphaltum edge and flow a second coat of glue. Allow to dry and chip off.
9) Clean off the asphaltum varnish.

This was descrbed to me by Rick for a job he had done for someone's pool house doors. They wanted some verbage on the glass but without any clear glow line around it that someone could peak through. So he sandblasted the whole glass, screen printed the word "pool" over the sandblast and chipped right up to the edge of it. If you don't double chip the glass, you'll have little sandblasted extremities coming off the design.

If you try this, and are successful, post a picture of the finished product.
Larry White
That's enough for now... it's gettin' late
Town Of Machine
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Jeff Umsted
Posts: 37
Joined: Fri Apr 09, 2004 9:55 pm
Location: Lapeer Mi.

Post by Jeff Umsted »

Thankyou much gentleman! That was exactly the articals and how too's I was thinking about. Knew I saw them couldn't remeber where.....must be in the holiDAZE!

Thanks again! :P
Jeff
Jeff Umsted
Lapeer, Michigan
Mike Jackson
Site Admin
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Post by Mike Jackson »

Image

The photo above is of a project I did to test the process. Unlike the process Larry passed along, I didn't apply asphaltum to the glass until the later steps. That was brushed in, similar to Larry's description.

Personally, I like this method better since there is less asphaltum to clean up and less wasted, plus you don't have to wait for the first application of asphaltum to dry to apply stencil.

Still, I am sure there would be times the base coat of asphsltum would be the better choice.

http://www.theletterheads.com/lhparts/gluejackson.html

Mike
Mike Jackson / co-administrator
Golden Era Studios
Vintage Ornamental Clip art
Jackson Hole, WY

Photography site:
Teton Images
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Jeff Umsted
Posts: 37
Joined: Fri Apr 09, 2004 9:55 pm
Location: Lapeer Mi.

Post by Jeff Umsted »

Mike, I am laughing cause that is the sign/artical that I was thinking about getting ideas for upcomeing stuff!

I will throw this out there cause I have not seen it other then a local woman that does this but won't tell me how. Now, I know there are light bases for glass. The local woman somehow uses lights (possible l.e.d.) in and around her frames to give her sandblast carving a splash of color, but somehow she "aims" the lights to only hit certain objects in the copy.

Its quite striking and dramatic almost looks like neon. You can't see the lights from either side of the glass as they are hidden inside the frame itself. You can't see the lights either by eyeballing across the surface into the edge of the frames. Oh ya, shes good! She also has several different colors on one piece which also adds to the effect. She can have a underwater scene in which the top (water) is blue, the seaweed green and the fish are multicolored yellow/ ornge/ red.

Anyone else do this or seen it? Any possible ideas as to how to tackle this? I will be playing around with different lighting sources and see what happens.

Jeff
Jeff Umsted
Lapeer, Michigan
Danny Baronian
Site Admin
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Post by Danny Baronian »

Jeff,

the light source was most likely led's. I have samples of led's that are less than 1/4" wide, 1" high and 6" long, which could easily be concealed in a small base.

If a plain piece of glass was inserted into the stand, the only thing you'd notice would be a slight glow around the edges. Once you sandblast, chip or engrave into the glass you've created 'edges' within the glass that refracts the light so the design is highlighted.

You can make your own with led strips - look in any of the sign magazines, most have ads, or do a google search. A starter kit is usually $ 100.

If you want just the base, do a google search for lit glass stands, or check with stained glass supply, engravers and engraver suppliers like Johnson Plastics.

Several years ago at one of the Conclaves, someone brought a blasted piece of glass about 6x6". He used a hand held, battery powered florescent light, about 6" long, made a wood base to hide the light, groves for inserting the glass into the base, turned the light on and it only lit up the blasted area. It looked nice - and didn't have to be plugged in.

Danny
Danny Baronian
Baronian Mfg.
CNC Routing & Fabrication
http://www.baronian.com
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