Thanks Danny,

I contacted an Osrud dealer and they don't make a high speed steel bit with a bearing guide. I need a 3/8" cove bit and a 5/8", 45 degree chamfer bit.

This sounds like the answer but I can't find someone who makes them.

Thanks,

Joe

I work mostly with pine and just can't find a bit thet doesn't tear when going cross grain. What brand works best for you?

BTW....How can pine dull a carbide bit????

Thanks for your help.

Joe

I've been surface gilding for close to 30 yrs but I certainly don't produce the high level of gilding I've seen here and other places. I think I have used most every method to test for the right tack. The knuckle dragging squeak test mostly. My problem was that the test itself had a "window&quo...

Doug, I understand the problem with describing how to test the tack for gilding. What I have started to do is to take a food can lid and paint a portion of it with the same top coats that I am using on my sign. I apply the size on the lid at the same time I apply it to the letters. To test the tack,...

I think you may have it, Jeff! After burnishing the gold....he brushes on a coat of 1 Shot clear with 10 percent hardner and then airbrushed a transparent blue to the bottom of the letters. "Working 'wet on wet' melts the airbrush colors into the clear, leaving a level, glossy surface." I ...

Roderick, From the article: "Mix 1Shot gold size with hardner and a few drops of white." I know Alan pretty much sticks with 1Shot products, so I assume it's the 1Shot hardner. He also says, "1Shot size is user friendly; there is no hurry to get the gold on before it dries, so take yo...

I just read an article in Sign Business by Alan Johnson. The article included gilding on a vehicle. Alan mixed hardner into his 1 Shot size.

Alan, what are the results of doing that ?

Does anyone else do that????

I'm learning a lot here.....thanks everyone!

Joe

Thanks.....No easy way out for me I guess. Carve, paint, gild and touch-up. I'll stick to the tried and true.

Thanks Again......boy, this could have been a real mess!

Joe,

I have a job that would sure be made easier (for me) if I could gild the surface first, then mask, carve, paint and remove the mask. I use Avery paint mask. Has anyone tried this? Will it work? Will the mask somehow affect the gild? My other option is to carve the entire piece, paint and gild and th...

Thanks everyone,

I've picked up New Orleans, GA, Ontario and OK. That should do it. Thanks!

Thanks Ray, but Dave was first......sorry .

Joe

Update.....

First, let me say Thanks!

These are the test areas so far....



Mike in Jackson WY, Danny near San Francisco, Pierre in Quebec and Dave near Dalas TX. Ray, are your conditions much different than Dalas?

I'd like to make 6 samples.
Any ideas of other areas?

Thanks again,

Joe

I would like to field test an experimental surface gild. I've been testing it here in Northwest Connecticut (which has some pretty sever weather) for a year....so far so good. I would like to test it in other regions under different conditions. If you are so inclined, have a unique enviornment and a...

Mike, Like you, I didn't pay attention either. I just saw the tool I needed and picked it up and used it! That changed when I began teaching and writing thru the Letterhead movement. I had to watch what I was doing so that I could describe what was going on and why I did things a certain way. This f...

Larry,

Thats a great looking set that apears to be in very fine condition. I can't believe no one has bid on it.......at $120 it's a great bargin!

Joe,

I am frequently asked what is a good "set" of tools to begin with. For relief carving (not letter carving) I recommend these 5 tools. They are the ones I use most often. 1. A JW2 3.0 knife handle with a modified #20 blade (pen knife in size) 2. A #5 20mm straight gouge 3. A #3 8mm straight...

Mike, Not to answer for Doug but he did state that the belt rotates down. This is the preferred method for cabinet makers. When the wheel rotates into the edge there is support behind the the wire edge and there is less "tear out" of steel. You will notice that most, if not all, bench grin...

Great news, Doug!!!!! :D Looking at your set-up It's easy to see, that in essence, our two systems do the same job. I think you are going to like the PVC jig....it holds the tool at a right angle to the tool rest and at a constant length. That's gonna make sharpening your parting tools a lot easier....

Doug, Yes i will be doing a sharpening presentation along with two other carving presentarions.....Nancy and Noella will be there too!!! :) Thanks Mike for the shots......seems Doug likes the flat bevel too! I'd be honored if you could make the meet, Doug!!! I don't get a chance to get together with...

Hey Doug,

I just talked to Darryl and Dave and found out you are from Ottawa...why don't you see if you can make the Letterhead Roundup in Mocton, NB.....we can compare notes!

They showed me some of your work......awesum!

Make Chips!

Joe,

D. Bernhardt, As I stated in my second post on this thread the article was in the July and Aug. issues in 2001 of Sign Business Magazine. The July issue was on the grinding....Aug. was honing and stropping. This setup is perfect for parting tools. The setup with the pvc stop on and against the flat ...

I guess I shouldn't post late at night..... :oops: I'll assume that the "gizmo" is the sharpening center... Here goes.... 1. Turn on the machine and start the water drip 2. Place the gouge (with the pre set pvc jig attached) on the flat tool rest on the inside of the wheel. (This is the we...

Gizmo???????


If you have the article.......please tell me what gizmo you are talking about....please.

except for the stop made from PVC....everything else is standard with this machine....

PLEASE, tell me what you mean by GIZMO........

Joe

Mike, I agree with Jill! I had a little bumpy start with my first post but you made me feel welcome and were open to at least try to understand my theory.....looking at that Spanjer R and thinking about a black return seemed a little daunting to me...so why not "dip" :D Nothing ventured......

Just a couple of comments.... Yes, cabinet makers use hollow ground edges but they use the back (flat) side of the blade to guide the edge. For carving, it's the opposite. The bevel is used for the guide. I used to do the hollow grind too untill I got the Delta. I used a 8" lapidary wheel....th...

Rick,

I've heard others say the same thing about increasing the work angle in harder woods. Why do you do that? Its just seems you would want a low angle to get behind the edge as much as possible????

Thanks,

Joe

OOPPPPS! :oops: http://www.theletterheads.com/signphotos/joespanjerr.jpg (Photo of Joe's Spanjer style R inserted by Mike Jackson 7-21-04) I just re-read Mikes first post. The question is "what do you use" and I was thinking "how do you" I'm back on track now..... I use a slightl...

I just finished a sign that needed 4 coats of stain on each side. The minimum wait between coats was 4 hrs. Instead of cleaning the brush after each coat I wraped it tightly in plastic and put it in the beer fridge. In this case it was a foam brush but it works with regular brushes too. Make sure th...

OK, I give up!!!!! :x I just spent the last 1/2 hour typing the next instalment....I hit submit and it got tossed...ERROR ON PAGE Lets try this.... There was a thread on the Letterville Web Site http://www.letterhead.com/ubb/index.html do a search for "notes on sharpening carving tools" Th...

The method I've been using for many years involves putting a hex head sheet metal screw (1/2") near the outside radius of the lid. Turn the can upside down (after shaking) remove the screw and squeeze the can (old oil can style) to extract the required amount of paint. Put the screw back in BEF...

Well, I'm stuck in the past..... I use the method you first noted. I use flax string....no stretching. The formula for finding the pin spread is.... C (the pin spread)= the square root of A squared - B squared A is the long length of the oval and B is the short length. It doesn't really take a long ...