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Patina on Carved Letters

Hand Lettering topics: Sign Making, Design, Fabrication, Letterheads, Sign Books.

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Site Man
Posts: 573
Joined: Sun Mar 13, 2005 1:03 am
Location: Marlborough, MA

Patina on Carved Letters

Post by Site Man »

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Posted by Chris Maylone on May 17, 2003
Does anyone have an idea about a good(and stable)
patination method for a carved hdu letter?
Danny Busselle
Yes...I do. Start with "Break Through" a New formulation. and any patina dye will work ,But what are you looking for? I suggest going to these web sites http://www.mannbrothers.com/index.htm
http://www.markspaint.com/
you may want to call and order a catalog on a perticular product. German Dyes are richer and extend to more Base and less Dye than all of the american ones. Great place to start.

Regards
Danny
Chris Maylone
What I'm trying to do is get an even green patina on a prismatic or round face letter. I've tried patinating over copper leaf-and got good; but not
very stable, results.
Roderick - Stability vs Change
The whole "Metal Patina" finish issue is very complex.I have spent a lot of time doing "Real and Faux" patina finishes. What I have found is patinaed metals are always changing/Painted finishes are stable
If your tring to do a oxhidized Patina finish it will never be stable!ever. Thats why you all ways see exterior scultures being refinished every so many years .The patina finish is always in a sate of flux.
While a true patina finish is quite beutiful if you are lookig for stablity you might want to do it as a faux finish that way it will be very stable.Any natural patina finish can be done in paint and it can be very easy.
For copper The colors can go from copper with green , dark egg plant/black with a little hint of frosty green to a bright frosty aqua green.I keep alot of samples of real metal patinas around to copy.
First the base coat can be metalic copper or dark egg plant to black.First glaze can be darkgreen to light green and then a frosty light green /aqua overglaze to finish.I like at least 3 layers on any glazed finish to have really great depth. I only do a copper base when I want it to look like it's all most new bright copper.Remember most patinaed metals have very little of the original bright colors left until they are polished back to their original state and even then the metal would be tarnished darker.I almost always use Nova Color 100% acyrlics with their matt medium to make a glaze.It's very stable outside.
I hope that helps you and if you need any details don't hesitate to e-mail or call 760 943 9299.
Just remember that a Natural patina finish will alway change.If you can handle that it is very nice.If you want stablity paint it!
Roderick


D. Bernhardt
Hi Chris,
By stable do you mean the copper continued to darken. If so I,d try something like frog juice or Clear-shield over the finished letter. Have used other acrylic laquers and water based clears over copper, white and green gold and silver with terrific results although never over an already treated letter as you have described.
Danny Busselle
Use spray Bottle with your soluation in it, next another spray bottle with 1/2 cut soluation in it next another spray Bottle a Reducer. if you are useing, oil based materials then use napthpa, if water based use water. and you may want to add a little fertilizer. perfer copper sulfate in it. work the spray until consitancy is achived. MAKE SAMPLE FIRST! so you know what happened. it's a matter of controling the soluations as nature would do it.
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