Rick's Smalts Paint Formula

[Site Man]

OLD FORUM POSTS

Posted by Mike Jackson on April 05, 2003

The two paragraphs below come from a paper Rick Glawson wrote on the Smalts process. It was forwarded to me by John Jordan, one of many he collected from Rick over the years. I'll try to retype the entire thing someday, but for now, this information might be very valuable. --Mike J.

"In order to attach the smalts to a surface, a SMALT PAINT is required. Although many materials have been used in recent years with varied results, keep in mind that merely sticking them to the surface will give you bald spots with just short service. They must sink into the adhesive a third to one half of their thickness to be permanently adhered. There is also the matter of open time when dealing with larger signs. The original recipe was to take a keg of white lead (which was of a paste thickness), break it down with additional linseed oil to a brushing consistency and add some color to it to closely match the smalt.

In keeping with its character, our modern method is to use a half and half mix of (1) a lettering enamel matching the smalt (black with black, brilliant blue with cobalt, etc.) and (2) a conditioning cream made for bulletin board pictorial work. Smith's Cream by Dana, Jack's Cream by Ronan and Jones Cream by Akzo are the brands available. Mixing the enamel and cream together 50/50 will give you the viscosity needed to fix the smalt, and the open time sufficient to easily do a twenty foot sign with it's drying time just overnight. Some craftsmen use a product called Hol-fast-oil or epoxies for small areas but I’m assured the open time is minimal."

Sara Shaeffer

I work for a sign distributor - N. Glantz and son and we're looking for a supplier of smalts. Do you have any suggestions? Any help you can offer would be appreciated. Thanks.

Rick Sacks

I've had some balding areas with that formula, but after a few years in some rather severe weather exposure. Bill Blumberg has expressed to me that he's been experiencing better results with fiberglass epoxy for a base.

Vance Galliher

...i have pieces that are years old using that combination...... and never a failure!......vance

Raymond Chapman

That's the same one I remember Rick giving me and has been used several times in the past year or so, all with good results...so far.

D. Bernhardt

Thats the same formulae Rick gave me several years ago....so far so good! no bald spots and everything is still stuck down!

Barbara Schilling - Bill Hueg's Formula

I got this from Bill a long time ago. I have it on my sign which was installed about 13 years ago. The smalt areas are still VERY GOOD condition. (The rest looks like heck and the replacement sign is still under construction.) Also used on another long term sign that was up for nearly 15 years before replacement. Here is the formula for black glass smalt base:

Mix 40% Lettering Enamel and 60% Dana Colors Titanium White Oil Color until of snotty consistency. Add Japan lampblack until it is a dark shade. (for black smalt) Thin as necessary with varnish.

Don't know if Bill still prefers this formula, but I'd use it again any time.

Raymond Chapman

Barbara, I need you to explain one of the technical terms you used. What is a "snotty consistency"?

Barbara Schilling

Ray,
Go Blow!

Raymond Chapman

I beg your pardon! Say what?

Barbara Schilling

Now Raymond, do I have to get GRAPHIC here?

SNOTTY CONSISTENCY = The consistency of the fluid blown out of one's nose, preferable when one has a fairly debilitating upper respiratory ailment.

Don't you guys in the southern belt get upper respiratory ailments? heh heh