Peel wet or dry?

[Joe House]

I realize that this is kind of on the edges of hand lettering, but a necessary process for this poor signmaking wannabe - Actually I'm thinking of how I can use a computer cut stencil for doing gold leaf work on some gift projects.

The order of steps are obvious to me, but the timing is my question. If I paint (or size) through a vinyl mask, do I remove the mask immediatly, after it tacks up somewhat, or wait till it completely dries?

Any pointers in this area would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks everyone,

Joe

[Mike Jackson]

Joe....besides the obvious response of "do some tests", I suggest sizing, gilding and then peeling. You can also "cut" an outline in the mask at the time of the original letters, gild, and then peel the outline part. That makes it easy to outline with a nice brush and only worry about having to be neat on one side of the stroke. Lastly, we have seen some minor residue being left when peeling stencil. If that happens, and you gild after you size and peel, gold can stick where you don't want it.

You can also make an argument to peel immdeiately after sizing. That can let the little ridge at the edge of the stencil to flow back into the letter and reduce the slightly thicker build up there. Still, we would normally gild before peeling the stencil.

Mike

[Roderick Treece]

One of the wonders of vinyl for me is useing it for masking.
When I get ready to start applying my paint or size I always put test spots next to the work so you can pull those up prior to pulling up the mask on your finished pieces.I make 4 to 5 little windows 1'' x 1" or so on EVERY piece so I know when it's just right to pull the mask.I paint those test spots about a 1/2 an hour before I paint the finished piece that way you know when your to early (runny) or just right or if your to late the paint comes upswith the mask and you have to cut the whole design out by hand (Nightmere!)If you get to the to late stage on your samples the real piece has just gone past the early stage and gone to the just right stage and you never get the the Nightmere stage.
If those that remember Black and white photography,When you did a test strip while printing it's like that.You do the test spots so you know how long your exposure (drying time) will be .
The reason I always do the test spots on the work is that you never know how things are going to dry day to day so you've alway got it right there on the work.

Hope that makes sence

Roderick

[Doug Fielder]

When I have the luxury of having paintmask, I like to do as Mike does, cut the outline in there too, except I cut a smaller outline first, so that after I paint in/size the lettering, I pull up the first outline (usually .1") to let the size lay over. From there you let it set up and then gild engine turn or whatever and then you have a nice border to clear to as well. It helps if you want to spray a nice automotive clear (truck lettering), then whan this is still wet, weed out the rest of the original outline, letting the clear layout too. Then you can outline the whole thing and pull up the whole mask and you are done and cleared.
I have had bad luck with the leaving the mask on while gilding, it has pulled the gold off the size, or given me sharp edges that One Shot cannot cover anymore. It might be the fact that I am only 8 years into this too. oh well, the one way I do it works for me.
I guess try out every way you can think of and see what you like the best.

Good luck.

Doug
FALLOUT Grafix
Montpelier, VT