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This is an interactive Bulletin Board on the topics of Sign making, design, fabrication, History, old Books and of coarse Letterheads, Keepers of the craft. The Hand Lettering Forum features links to resources, sign art history, techniques, and artists profiles. Learn more about Letterheads at https://theletterheads.com. Below you'll see Mchat has been added as a live communication portal for trial, and the Main forum Links are listed below.
This is an interactive Bulletin Board on the topics of Sign making, design, fabrication, History, old Books and of coarse Letterheads, Keepers of the craft. The Hand Lettering Forum features links to resources, sign art history, techniques, and artists profiles. Learn more about Letterheads at https://theletterheads.com. Below you'll see Mchat has been added as a live communication portal for trial, and the Main forum Links are listed below.
Smith's cream for smalt glue (sizing)
Moderators: Ron Percell, Mike Jackson, Danny Baronian
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- Posts: 6
- Joined: Mon Jan 15, 2007 12:31 pm
- Location: Ashland,Ohio
- Contact:
Smith's cream for smalt glue (sizing)
I had the pleasure of being taught to do smalt by Rick Glawson many years ago (over the phone). He said to use Smith's Cream as the holding agent for the smalt. He said to use 50% Smith Cream w/ 50% 1-Shot (same color as glass) and it works great. I have also used "Dura-Finish" (no color added) as a smalt holding agent and it seemed to be great (not so thick as to not submerge the glass though). Does anyone else have something different that they are using?
Nahum 1:7
Matt Lamborn
Ashland, Ohio
Matt Lamborn
Ashland, Ohio
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- Site Admin
- Posts: 1705
- Joined: Tue Apr 06, 2004 11:02 pm
- Location: Jackson Hole, WY
- Contact:
Hi Matt,
Here's a VERY HELPFUL hint for you!
Go up to the SEARCH button under the banner at the top of the page. Do a search for "smalts" (no quotes)
Once you do the search, you will see this topic discussed a ton on this forum. I did the search and turned up a full page of links.
Here's one of them:
https://handletteringforum.com/forum ... ght=smalts
That particular one has a set of formulas suggested by Frank Atkinson.
Other search results had other formulas.
Luckily, we've had this Forum up long enough to have covered a wide range of topics and more than likely you will find great information buried away waiting to be rediscovered.
Try it out!
Mike Jackson
PS: I always thought Smith's Cream was much slow drying for my tastes. Ideally, you want it to be slow enough to allow you to paint it on, but then dry in a reasonable time so you can get the sign out the door. A lot of the answers would depened on whether you were masking off the areas or whether you were cutting the background area in with a fitch or something suitable for a thick medium.
Here's a VERY HELPFUL hint for you!
Go up to the SEARCH button under the banner at the top of the page. Do a search for "smalts" (no quotes)
Once you do the search, you will see this topic discussed a ton on this forum. I did the search and turned up a full page of links.
Here's one of them:
https://handletteringforum.com/forum ... ght=smalts
That particular one has a set of formulas suggested by Frank Atkinson.
Other search results had other formulas.
Luckily, we've had this Forum up long enough to have covered a wide range of topics and more than likely you will find great information buried away waiting to be rediscovered.
Try it out!
Mike Jackson
PS: I always thought Smith's Cream was much slow drying for my tastes. Ideally, you want it to be slow enough to allow you to paint it on, but then dry in a reasonable time so you can get the sign out the door. A lot of the answers would depened on whether you were masking off the areas or whether you were cutting the background area in with a fitch or something suitable for a thick medium.
Mike Jackson / co-administrator
Golden Era Studios
Vintage Ornamental Clip art
Jackson Hole, WY
Photography site:
Teton Images
Jackson Hole photography blog:
Best of the Tetons
Golden Era Studios
Vintage Ornamental Clip art
Jackson Hole, WY
Photography site:
Teton Images
Jackson Hole photography blog:
Best of the Tetons
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- Posts: 1213
- Joined: Thu Apr 08, 2004 4:18 am
Smalt Glue...
Hi Matt-
I'm thoroughly sold on using Hold Fast Smalt Glue for adhering glass smalt. I mix it with 1/3 to 1/2 volume of matching One Shot sign enamel. I then paint out the area. I like to put my glass smalt in one of those shaker jars that they have the red peppers in at the pizza parlor, and shake it out over the entire area. After fully covered, I tap it around on all sides, then pour it off. I reapply it over the area with the shaker, tap it out again, then leave it to dry overnight. Then tap off all the excess. Not one of my smalt projects has shead any of the smalt. Hey, smalt glue for glueing smalt...sounds like a no-brainer.
I'm thoroughly sold on using Hold Fast Smalt Glue for adhering glass smalt. I mix it with 1/3 to 1/2 volume of matching One Shot sign enamel. I then paint out the area. I like to put my glass smalt in one of those shaker jars that they have the red peppers in at the pizza parlor, and shake it out over the entire area. After fully covered, I tap it around on all sides, then pour it off. I reapply it over the area with the shaker, tap it out again, then leave it to dry overnight. Then tap off all the excess. Not one of my smalt projects has shead any of the smalt. Hey, smalt glue for glueing smalt...sounds like a no-brainer.
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- Posts: 6
- Joined: Mon Jan 15, 2007 12:31 pm
- Location: Ashland,Ohio
- Contact:
Thanks Mike for the info! I will check it out when more time is avail. I'm sure a sign guy could spend countless ours reading and learning here. That is why I was so glad I stumbled upon it. And thank you Larry for the link...never heard of it but always open for trying something new! Thanks again!
Nahum 1:7
Matt Lamborn
Ashland, Ohio
Matt Lamborn
Ashland, Ohio
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- Site Admin
- Posts: 1705
- Joined: Tue Apr 06, 2004 11:02 pm
- Location: Jackson Hole, WY
- Contact:
Hi Larry,
I didn't know QH&F (Quill Hair & Ferrule) was still in business. Ken Millar used to own and run it. I wonder if he is still associated with it? I also heard Estes Hol Fast oil was a discontinued product, but maybe QH&F got the rights and formula. Estes was the Clifford Estes Company in New Jersey back when I bought the stuff. Nice to know the material is still around.
Mike Jackson
I didn't know QH&F (Quill Hair & Ferrule) was still in business. Ken Millar used to own and run it. I wonder if he is still associated with it? I also heard Estes Hol Fast oil was a discontinued product, but maybe QH&F got the rights and formula. Estes was the Clifford Estes Company in New Jersey back when I bought the stuff. Nice to know the material is still around.
Mike Jackson
Mike Jackson / co-administrator
Golden Era Studios
Vintage Ornamental Clip art
Jackson Hole, WY
Photography site:
Teton Images
Jackson Hole photography blog:
Best of the Tetons
Golden Era Studios
Vintage Ornamental Clip art
Jackson Hole, WY
Photography site:
Teton Images
Jackson Hole photography blog:
Best of the Tetons
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- Posts: 502
- Joined: Tue Apr 20, 2004 11:53 pm
- Location: Penzance, SK Canada
- Contact:
Well, I'm going to come in the with the Magic Smooth link again. No, I'm not making any commission, I'm just very taken with the verstility and low toxicity of this product.
I've never tried the Holdfast Glue (I know about the quality of stuff made in this town
) but I have used the Smiths/1 shot combo. The Magic Smooth works wonderfully. It has enough body that the smalts don't drown if the adhesive is a little thick. It's consistency is like bearing grease, you can tool it and it will not level out, but if you want a smooth coat you can spread it and smooth it out with a damp tool. It sets up in about four hours and dries within a day. If you want to smalt a curved or irregular surface, this stuff is great.
You can add a little paint to it to color it or you can apply it over a painted surface as it will dry fairly transparent.[/url]


You can add a little paint to it to color it or you can apply it over a painted surface as it will dry fairly transparent.[/url]
I believe there is no shame in failure. Rather, the shame lies in the loss of all the things that might have been, but for the fear of failure.