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This is an interactive Bulletin Board on the topics of Sign making, design, fabrication, History, old Books and of coarse Letterheads, Keepers of the craft. The Hand Lettering Forum features links to resources, sign art history, techniques, and artists profiles. Learn more about Letterheads at https://theletterheads.com. Below you'll see Mchat has been added as a live communication portal for trial, and the Main forum Links are listed below.
This is an interactive Bulletin Board on the topics of Sign making, design, fabrication, History, old Books and of coarse Letterheads, Keepers of the craft. The Hand Lettering Forum features links to resources, sign art history, techniques, and artists profiles. Learn more about Letterheads at https://theletterheads.com. Below you'll see Mchat has been added as a live communication portal for trial, and the Main forum Links are listed below.
Prints on glass
Moderators: Ron Percell, Mike Jackson, Danny Baronian
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- Location: Nebraska
Prints on glass
Recommendations for adhesive (vehicle) to attach paper prints to the reverse on glass/gold projects?
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Hi Robert, 1/3 resin gel add 1/3 damar varnish and 1/3 bulletin spar. I imagine you can play a little free with the type of spar/varnish but I wouldn't mess with the others. It goes without saying you'll need to have the work flat with this mixture. I also look forward to hearing what other are doing. Larry has a nice piece "old Tom" in an earlier post with a pictorial.
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This topic had a previous discussion at:
Signmaking 101: Adhereing Pictures to Glass
I like to use the 50/50 Window Spar varnish and Damar varnish mixture. I like to lightly coat both the picture and the glass, then, with the glass piece face up, reach underneath and position the picture onto the glass. I gently smooth it out from the center outward, visually inspecting to chase any bubbles out. Leave in this position to dry for several days. Inspect every so often to ensure no bubbles have crept back in.
The Resin Gel version is what I use for embossed varnish work.
As for the Tom Moore sign, the pictorial is adhered to the backing board and just pressed against the glass. At least with this method, if all the red fades out of your pictorial, you can easily replace it. I've often considered putting a few extras hidden inside the frame for later use.
I have found laminating pictorials to the glass is one of the trickier processes in this craft. Pressing them up against the glass is a breeze.
Signmaking 101: Adhereing Pictures to Glass
I like to use the 50/50 Window Spar varnish and Damar varnish mixture. I like to lightly coat both the picture and the glass, then, with the glass piece face up, reach underneath and position the picture onto the glass. I gently smooth it out from the center outward, visually inspecting to chase any bubbles out. Leave in this position to dry for several days. Inspect every so often to ensure no bubbles have crept back in.
The Resin Gel version is what I use for embossed varnish work.
As for the Tom Moore sign, the pictorial is adhered to the backing board and just pressed against the glass. At least with this method, if all the red fades out of your pictorial, you can easily replace it. I've often considered putting a few extras hidden inside the frame for later use.
I have found laminating pictorials to the glass is one of the trickier processes in this craft. Pressing them up against the glass is a breeze.
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- Posts: 123
- Joined: Wed Feb 07, 2007 12:38 pm
- Location: Nebraska
Thanks to Doug and Larry,
Having been out of the sign work for about 35 years (teaching printmaking) is the Damar Varnish the heavy varnish for embossed work or the lightweight picture varnish? Also is the bulletin spar the equivalent of One Shot tinting clear and marine spar varnish? I will continue to experiment but your help will speed the process.
Bob
Having been out of the sign work for about 35 years (teaching printmaking) is the Damar Varnish the heavy varnish for embossed work or the lightweight picture varnish? Also is the bulletin spar the equivalent of One Shot tinting clear and marine spar varnish? I will continue to experiment but your help will speed the process.
Bob
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Robert,
another suggestion would be to use optically clear laminating film, especially if your applying to a vertical surface.
Clear laminating film is available where ever ink jet printers, laminating film and ink for printers are sold. One national supplier is Charatte. For the small quantity you require, call a supplier and ask for some samples, as it's usually sold in rolls from 24" wide up in lengths of 150 yards. Specify more than you will need for the job as they will usually send what you request within reason.
The laminating film is basically a doubly stick tape in rolls, but is optically clear, and used for mounting photos and prints on the reverse side of glass or acrylic. Most quality films of this type also have a UV inhibitor, which will prolong the quality of the print.
Make your print with cut lines, apply film to the face of the print, trim and carefully lay down and squeegee. As usual, test first.
another suggestion would be to use optically clear laminating film, especially if your applying to a vertical surface.
Clear laminating film is available where ever ink jet printers, laminating film and ink for printers are sold. One national supplier is Charatte. For the small quantity you require, call a supplier and ask for some samples, as it's usually sold in rolls from 24" wide up in lengths of 150 yards. Specify more than you will need for the job as they will usually send what you request within reason.
The laminating film is basically a doubly stick tape in rolls, but is optically clear, and used for mounting photos and prints on the reverse side of glass or acrylic. Most quality films of this type also have a UV inhibitor, which will prolong the quality of the print.
Make your print with cut lines, apply film to the face of the print, trim and carefully lay down and squeegee. As usual, test first.