Breaking in Brushes...

[Doug Fielder]

Hey there,

I have a bunch of new (old stock) quills and since I am still new to all this, I am wondering what the best way to break-in new brushes is. I find they have very slight shag to the chiseled edge. Is the illustration in the LeBlanc book a good way to cure the shag (the emery board on the edge of the glass)?
I guess this is a helpfull question to many new to the art.

Thanks in advance.

[Billy Pickett]

...You could ruin your brushes if you trim away the hairs "feather" edge. This aspect is (one reason) why the particular type of animal hair was used insead of another kind.

...And, the best way to break in new quills is to paint letterforms with them every day.

[Mike Jackson]

Doug,
I'd wait for all the responses before doing anything to the brushes, trimming wise. Most are going to be good right out of the shute.

I'll throw in two notes....
1. Most people tell you to dip the brush in some brush oil and work the oil up high into the ferrule before you use it with paint. This keeps any paint that seeps to the top from getting hard and ruining the action of the brush. Essentially you do the same thing each time after use, too.

2. I believe it was Ken Millar that gave a presentation at a Letterhead meet a long time ago. He suggested "training" or using your brush so the twised wire is on either the left or right once the brush has been worked flat. According to him, the hair is stacked that way and then wrapped by the ferrule. Even if that is not the case, the concept would still be to get the brush used to being flattened that way each time you use it. Otherwise, the brush gets worked flat from a variety of positions and may not perform as well. I always did it the way Ken suggested, but I am not 100% sure it matters. Can't hurt.

Mike Jackson

[Doug Fielder]

Hmmm... Sounds good.

I am waiting to see, I have lots of the old quills, so I don't need any yet, more likely just curious. I know Alan Johnson told me that the chisel was with the wire twist on top (and he uses the same brushes I do, but I can't tell, like you, whether it is true or not). I try to "train" them every time as Harry taught me, but I found a few that were a little shaggier than the others, mostly all browns. Anyway, I will keep reading and who knows we all might learn something.

Thanks again!

[Doug Bernhardt]

Personally...I always just work it in naturally. It goes sort of like...in need of a new brush...wash out all the size in thinners with a rag....dip it into the paint.... Work it out for a moment or 2 and let it find it's edge, if it doesn't work well, start from washing it out again and then get to work. Will have to look at some of them and note where the wire rim is. For me there is no "magic" although I'm willing to bet the past 30 years or so has made me aware of a few nuances that might be obscure to those with less experience....all to say....get the brush out and get used to the fun.
cheers till later

[john knight]

Hello Doug,
Just read your article about trimming brushes, DON'T, just use them as
much as you can they will break in .
On the subject of keeping the flat edge, way back in the 50's here in
England there was a firm called The Devonshire School of Lettering,
they used to produce a sable writer with a flat on the handle to facilitate
keeping the brush always the same way.
You could put a slight nick in the handle or a spot of paint keeping the spot always right or left ensures the flat will always be the right way, always
make sure you grease it this way too.
Hope this helps you and good luck.
kind regards john knight England.