When I use sign foam I prime it with Evercoat feather fill polyester primer.I love the stuff but I have one problem and thats ,when you put it one ,spray or brush it's really hard to get it into the pours of the foam.Anybody use this material and have any sugestions?If youv'e never used this primer you should try it .
Roderick
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	This is an interactive Bulletin Board on the topics of Sign making, design, fabrication, History, old Books and of coarse Letterheads, Keepers of the craft. The Hand Lettering Forum features links to resources, sign art history, techniques, and artists profiles. Learn more about Letterheads at https://theletterheads.com. Below you'll see Mchat has been added as a live communication portal for trial, and the Main forum Links are listed below.
Sign foam primer
Moderators: Ron Percell, Mike Jackson, Danny Baronian
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				Roderick Treece
- Posts: 1086
- Joined: Sat Apr 10, 2004 8:04 pm
- Location: San deigo Calif
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That type of primer is hard to get it to flow into pinholes or pores of a material like sign foam.  You might try a squeege or maybe a foam brush which will force the primer into the pores.  I have had similar problems when putting clear over epoxied carbon fiber.....sometime just use my finger to push it into the pinholes..........
Jim
			
			
									
									Jim
Life is much too important to be taken seriously
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				Mike Jackson
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Just a couple of notes....
18 lb foam is much finer and easier to paint than teh 15 lb material. It costs more, but is more dense and quicker to paint.
We use Chromatic High Viscosity Block Out White, something we keep in stock for priming our MDO. The game plan is to cover the pores solid and not have to worry about pressing paint into the pores. Once the first coat is applied, you can sand the small burrs off the surface, but don't sand through the layer of paint.
Mike Jackson
			
			
									
									18 lb foam is much finer and easier to paint than teh 15 lb material. It costs more, but is more dense and quicker to paint.
We use Chromatic High Viscosity Block Out White, something we keep in stock for priming our MDO. The game plan is to cover the pores solid and not have to worry about pressing paint into the pores. Once the first coat is applied, you can sand the small burrs off the surface, but don't sand through the layer of paint.
Mike Jackson
Mike Jackson / co-administrator
Golden Era Studios
Vintage Ornamental Clip art
Jackson Hole, WY
Photography site:
Teton Images
Jackson Hole photography blog:
Best of the Tetons
						Golden Era Studios
Vintage Ornamental Clip art
Jackson Hole, WY
Photography site:
Teton Images
Jackson Hole photography blog:
Best of the Tetons
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				Roderick Treece
- Posts: 1086
- Joined: Sat Apr 10, 2004 8:04 pm
- Location: San deigo Calif
- Contact:
Mike,
How does the cromatic sand and whats the drying time.Thats one thing about the feather fill,it sands great and is ready to sand in an hour.I'll try the 18 lbs next time.
Also if you learn to spary the feather fill on thick and slow at a low pressure it fills great .You can build it up fast and it all dryies because it' s catylized.
Roderick
			
			
									
									
						How does the cromatic sand and whats the drying time.Thats one thing about the feather fill,it sands great and is ready to sand in an hour.I'll try the 18 lbs next time.
Also if you learn to spary the feather fill on thick and slow at a low pressure it fills great .You can build it up fast and it all dryies because it' s catylized.
Roderick
- 
				Mike Jackson
- Site Admin
- Posts: 1705
- Joined: Tue Apr 06, 2004 11:02 pm
- Location: Jackson Hole, WY
- Contact:
Roderick,
We have never had a spray booth, so spraying paint has not been much of an option. We normally let block out white dry all day...sometimes adding a second coat just before bed. It sands okay once dry. We often just use a foam roller and a 3/4" fitch.
I've seen some really high gloss finishes on foam letters, but we seldom felt compelled to finish cut out letters to that degree...same for our MDO panels.
Best regards,
Mike Jackson
			
			
									
									We have never had a spray booth, so spraying paint has not been much of an option. We normally let block out white dry all day...sometimes adding a second coat just before bed. It sands okay once dry. We often just use a foam roller and a 3/4" fitch.
I've seen some really high gloss finishes on foam letters, but we seldom felt compelled to finish cut out letters to that degree...same for our MDO panels.
Best regards,
Mike Jackson
Mike Jackson / co-administrator
Golden Era Studios
Vintage Ornamental Clip art
Jackson Hole, WY
Photography site:
Teton Images
Jackson Hole photography blog:
Best of the Tetons
						Golden Era Studios
Vintage Ornamental Clip art
Jackson Hole, WY
Photography site:
Teton Images
Jackson Hole photography blog:
Best of the Tetons
- 
				Tony Segale
- Posts: 702
- Joined: Thu Apr 08, 2004 10:20 am
I've used the Chromatic Primer as well, worked great.
Then I tried a primer that Mike (can't recall that last name right now, one of the original letterheads and was sign shop foreman at Six Flags park in Denver, CO, is it Reilly?) told me he was using....Benjamin Moore's Fresh Start water base primer. This primer is awesome. Dries hard, sands very well. Easy cleanup, no fumes.
Since using the BM Fresh Start, I have slowly begun painting a lot of my signs, including MDO with this primer and top coated with BM 25 year exterior latex house paints.
			
			
									
									Then I tried a primer that Mike (can't recall that last name right now, one of the original letterheads and was sign shop foreman at Six Flags park in Denver, CO, is it Reilly?) told me he was using....Benjamin Moore's Fresh Start water base primer. This primer is awesome. Dries hard, sands very well. Easy cleanup, no fumes.
Since using the BM Fresh Start, I have slowly begun painting a lot of my signs, including MDO with this primer and top coated with BM 25 year exterior latex house paints.
and he took that golden hair and made a sweater for baby bear.
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