Best Brand of Router Bits?

[joe cieslowski]

I work mostly with pine and just can't find a bit thet doesn't tear when going cross grain. What brand works best for you?

BTW....How can pine dull a carbide bit????

Thanks for your help.

Joe

[Russ McMullin]

I have had good experiences with CMT and Freud bits, but I've heard Whitesides are even better. Pine has a lot of pitch, which probably contributes to the dulling of the bits. Danny Baronian should have an opinion on this. His woodwork is very clean and precise.

Russ

[Danny Baronian]

Your best bet for pine and any species of soft wood would be high speed steel. I don't know exact figures, but high speed steel is about 20 - 30% sharper than carbide because carbide by it's nature is unable to obtain the same sharpness as steel. In routing the carbide chops the wood off, where the steel slices it off like a sharp plane. The steel needs to be sharpened more frequently, but will produce a superior edge. For small runs and occasional touch up with a stone, the steel bit will last a long time.

We used to use 1/4" carbide bits in cutting out 3/4" pine parts until I contacted Onsrud where they suggested the steel, the difference was amazing. The steel bit cut parts that required no edge treatment at all, even cross grain. I went under the assumption that carbide was best until I realized the mills I've dealt with to make moldings never use carbide and will mill up to 200,000 lineal feet of material before sharpening. Another thing that will help is to use the largest diameter shank your router will accept.

The best manufacture for high speed steel is Onsrud Cutter, http://www.onsrud.com. Their web site has the best bit information, and the phone tech support line is very good.

It's not that pine dulls the carbide, it's not as sharp as steel to begin with.

[joe cieslowski]

Thanks Danny,

I contacted an Osrud dealer and they don't make a high speed steel bit with a bearing guide. I need a 3/8" cove bit and a 5/8", 45 degree chamfer bit.

This sounds like the answer but I can't find someone who makes them.

Thanks,

Joe

[alf toy]

Lots of info at router forums:

http://www.routerforums.com/showthread.php?t=703

Amana Tool

http://www.amanatool.com/homepage_st.htm

Available at coastaltool.com

http://www.coastaltool.com/cgi-bin/Soft ... E+coastest

[Mike Jackson]

Joe,
I think Danny assumed you were asking about router bits used in the CNC routers for the lettering and background work.

All of my round-over, cove, chamfer, and ogee bits are carbide with bearings.

Mike Jackson

[Danny Baronian]

I run strictly carbide on my CNC. The difference of running a CNC vs a hand held router is higher speed rates, being able to climb cut -and a consistent feed rate. I also have a pin router that is hand fed. On that machine with pine I used high speed steel. Once routed, the edges required no sanding at all. With carbide it tore the end grain.

Routing by hand the high speed steel is best because it can be routed at a slower speed, but the bits, especially with a bearing may be hard to find. Consider having one made, the price is not that expensive, and will last a long time. Any good saw shop should be able to provide that service.

I spoke with a tech rep at Onsrud this morning. He suggested that you push the router as hard and as fast as you could when using a carbide bit in a hand held router. Dulling of the bit is caused by slow feed rates which heats up the carbide, degrades the bit, and produces a bad finish on the part. If the feed rate is slow and long enough the carbide will actually fail and come off the shank.

I would suggest mounting the router under the bench and route the blank face down. Do a few test pieces and increase the speed to where you feel comfortable and compare the finish. Another thing would be to climb cut on the end grain - route in a backwards direction. With care it can be done, but try it with a larger piece until you get the feel of the feed. In long grain this method will have a tendency to kick the wood back out so pay attention and excerise extreme caution.

Let us know how this works for you. As far as manufactures, Onsrud are good bits. Another good source is routerbits.com - http://www.routerbits.com/cgi-routerbit ... rofile.htm. I believe the line is Whiteside.

[joe cieslowski]

Thanks Danny,

Your research took some time and I appreciate it.

I use my chamfer bit in a router table and my results across the grain is better than when I cut coves with a small hand held router. (I previously sent you an example) I usually hold the panel down onto a rubber pad but it's not perfect. I'll try a mechanical hold/down and see if I can't get a faster feed rate. I may have to switch to a router table for these cuts too.

Thanks again for your efforts to help me solve this problem.

Joe

[Danny Baronian]

Joe,

the sample you sent had very good edges, did they require sanding?

Mounting the router under the table is simple. You don't need a dedicated router table, just get an extra base for your router, drill a hole in your workbench and screw the extra base underneath. That will definitely give you a better edge than hand holding the part and router.

Get a good bit; Onsrud, Amana,and Whiteside, are a few of the best. Occasionally take a diamond sharpening stone and dress the flat only of each flute, use light pressure to clean the face and you'll further improve the cut.

[joe cieslowski]

Thanks for the suggestions Danny,

My main work bench is steel and the others are old butcher tables with 3" thick maple tops......I won't be cutting any holes in any of them

My "router table" is a 1/2"x12"x2' piece of MDO with the router mounted to one end and held to the bench with my ZYLISS vise and a 25lb bag of lead shot to hold it down. It's easy to install and store. I've just picked up another big router that will take a 1/2" shaft router bit.....I guess I'll make another "table", using it just for the cove cuts.

I'm using the Amana bits now and I do touch them up as you suggested with a fine diamond "stone". And, yes, your sample was sanded.

I just hate sanding and was hoping there was a better solution. I'd be in heaven if I could go right from the router to staining and clearing......oh well.

Well, guess what I have to do now.....two custom blanks to route.

Thanks again,

Joe,

[Terry Colley]

Hi Joe
I use a unilift by woodpecker the router is attached to this and set upside down on the bench, a chain device is then used to lift or lower the router head. this allows you to do a rough cut first then adjust up a little and finish with a fine cut . I also use the finish cut feature when cnc routing
Cheers terry

[joe cieslowski]

Just an update.

I switched to a larger router in a router table. I also found a cove bit with a 1/2" shank.

The cut still needs a little sanding but the tear-out is minimal. When I have a chance I'll touch up the new bit with my diamond stone and that should do it.

Thanks for the help and input!!

Joe,