I'm currently doing a couuple of pre- pieces, readying for a real job I have. It's ...black outline painted first, then varnish centres with burnished outline(23k) in one gild.
Question: what is the best mix for the varnish, and
paint mix for the black.
I've used some damar and rubbing varnish before, very sticky. I have clear fibroseal, and think that would help?
For the black, i've used dekor tube black, 20% screen enamel, thin with turps and clear fibroseal. Seems like I have to thin to much with turps, paint doesn't flow that well , my outlines get to thick? Oh, is that just my bad lettering???
anyway, long story, any advice//
Thanks
John
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This is an interactive Bulletin Board on the topics of Sign making, design, fabrication, History, old Books and of coarse Letterheads, Keepers of the craft. The Hand Lettering Forum features links to resources, sign art history, techniques, and artists profiles. Learn more about Letterheads at https://theletterheads.com. Below you'll see Mchat has been added as a live communication portal for trial, and the Main forum Links are listed below.
Paint & Varnish mixes
Moderators: Ron Percell, Mike Jackson, Danny Baronian
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- Location: Burnaby, British Columbia, Canada
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Paint & Varnish mixes
"You spelled it wrong!"
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- Joined: Thu Jul 22, 2004 7:08 pm
- Location: Port St Lucie, FL
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Hey John,
I can say, because I just did one.... I used japan lampblack and Quick rubbing varnish, and didn't have too much build at all.
I just mixed enough rubbing varnish in the japan to smooth it out to be a nice thin medium.
It brushed well and covered alright. I never added any thinners to it.
The varnish centers, I used 1hr quick size, and it worked well with the loose leaf. I did have difficulty when using the screenable stuff, it was sticky and hard to work with. I did like it for backing up though.
I can say, because I just did one.... I used japan lampblack and Quick rubbing varnish, and didn't have too much build at all.
I just mixed enough rubbing varnish in the japan to smooth it out to be a nice thin medium.
It brushed well and covered alright. I never added any thinners to it.
The varnish centers, I used 1hr quick size, and it worked well with the loose leaf. I did have difficulty when using the screenable stuff, it was sticky and hard to work with. I did like it for backing up though.
Doug F.
FALLOUT Grafix
Port St Lucie, FL
Formerly from NJ, Formerly from VT,
Formerly from SF, CA, Formerly from NC,
Formerly from CO, FINALLY settled in FL!
FALLOUT Grafix
Port St Lucie, FL
Formerly from NJ, Formerly from VT,
Formerly from SF, CA, Formerly from NC,
Formerly from CO, FINALLY settled in FL!
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- Posts: 101
- Joined: Thu May 13, 2004 10:53 am
- Location: Burnaby, British Columbia, Canada
- Contact:
Thanks, Doug, finally finished some samples and then the main piece. It's a transom window over front door of a restored 100 year old house.
I think i've got the paint mix down now, just using dekor tube black with q. rubbing varnish and thinning with turps(may use naptha in future)
For the varnish centres, ended up using o/shot quick size, with least amount of brushstrokes, rather than window spar varnish. It was then a single gild, backing up with dekor ochre. WW spar varnish for protection, and it's ready to deliver!
This wasn't a big job, nor complex, but very satisfying to complete it, gives me incentive to persue more in the herritage house/building area. Nobody is doing gold up here.
btw, i tried using 00 steelwool to lightly burnish the varnish centres(Ron Purcell) with not conclusive results...will try using that on some o/shot gold size and see...
John
I think i've got the paint mix down now, just using dekor tube black with q. rubbing varnish and thinning with turps(may use naptha in future)
For the varnish centres, ended up using o/shot quick size, with least amount of brushstrokes, rather than window spar varnish. It was then a single gild, backing up with dekor ochre. WW spar varnish for protection, and it's ready to deliver!
This wasn't a big job, nor complex, but very satisfying to complete it, gives me incentive to persue more in the herritage house/building area. Nobody is doing gold up here.
btw, i tried using 00 steelwool to lightly burnish the varnish centres(Ron Purcell) with not conclusive results...will try using that on some o/shot gold size and see...
John
"You spelled it wrong!"
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- Posts: 143
- Joined: Thu Jul 22, 2004 7:08 pm
- Location: Port St Lucie, FL
- Contact:
Congrat, it does feel good, and tell people you did it!
Did you sign it in gold too? That is what I do.
I haven't used the Dekorgloss, but do know about it. It is supposed to be good stuff.
I have about 100+ pictures of my big window job, they all came out great. Ray, the owner of the store had an incredible digital camera 8 mega pixels and just loved doccumenting the gilding process. He is a film maker! I am even going to use one of the pictures on my business card to promote my glass gilding.
Anyway, I already have another glass job in our "Big City" Burlington. I can't get enough.
Did you sign it in gold too? That is what I do.
I haven't used the Dekorgloss, but do know about it. It is supposed to be good stuff.
I have about 100+ pictures of my big window job, they all came out great. Ray, the owner of the store had an incredible digital camera 8 mega pixels and just loved doccumenting the gilding process. He is a film maker! I am even going to use one of the pictures on my business card to promote my glass gilding.
Anyway, I already have another glass job in our "Big City" Burlington. I can't get enough.
Doug F.
FALLOUT Grafix
Port St Lucie, FL
Formerly from NJ, Formerly from VT,
Formerly from SF, CA, Formerly from NC,
Formerly from CO, FINALLY settled in FL!
FALLOUT Grafix
Port St Lucie, FL
Formerly from NJ, Formerly from VT,
Formerly from SF, CA, Formerly from NC,
Formerly from CO, FINALLY settled in FL!