Help An ole woodworker with new materials

Mike · Post by **Mike** » Tue Feb 28, 2006 7:34 pm

Hi Everyone:

I am an old woodwroker who builds victorian houses. I use cedar or cypress to make a lot of the gingerbread trim but owuld like to try some of these new materials. I have been reading about MDo and Extira and also about how you do a resin or epoxy wash before painting

My questions are:

1.) What product would you suggest that is weatherable and can be moulded to make gingerbread etc. ie MDO vs Extira vs real wood

2.) Suppliers in Northeast (Central New York)

3.) What is the resin wash or epoxy wash? How do u do that? Cna u then paint with an oil or water based product?? Does that make the paint stay on longer? I tried a product called Aluthane - which they put on brdges it was $44 a gallon but the guy who makes it paints pine and sinks it in water and doestn absorb but a hair - has anyone else used that - it has worked great on regular wood so far - seals it right up beter than epoxy he says - he makes both

4.) ANy books u might recommned on these subjects?

Mike

Doug Bernhardt · Post by **Doug Bernhardt** » Wed Mar 01, 2006 6:09 pm

Hi msn.....extira is a fairly new product and have used it a couple of times to see what happens. So far(2years) so good. I plan to try out a chunk in a bucket of water but haven't yet. Machines real nice too. MDO is a great product although you'll need to fill the edges etc. The manufacturer does suggest epoxy sealing the edges and I have been doing that. Bondo for filler and epoxy (west system) before oil paints. It is good to remove the "blush" from epoxy and I use a scotch bright pad. Same ones you see in a body shop. The other stuff you ask about I really have had no experience so will leave that to others who have.

Guest · Post by **Guest** » Thu Mar 02, 2006 9:36 pm

Hi :

Thanks for the info -

about the bondo - I have used that on cars - just put it in and use oil paint over it? ie latex wont work?

With the epoxy - just put the glue on straight or do you thin it with somehting?

Oil paint will cover both of these without peeling

Mike

Doug Bernhardt · Post by **Doug Bernhardt** » Fri Mar 03, 2006 9:25 pm

Hi Mike...as to latex...have no idea. Arround here we only use oil primer...as to epoxy...thinning is not recommened by manufacturer...also I see no reason to bother. I talked to a supplier not long ago and he says the BEST system for finishing is gloss latex over oil primer. It sort of flies in my face but there you have it. Have done a few jobs like that and they are still looking as good as the day they left the shop. Some oil over oil are less so and that could be the result of south facing vs. north facing etc etc.

cam bortz · Post by **cam bortz** » Thu Mar 23, 2006 8:33 am

Since gingerbread trim isn't a structural element, why not use HDU/Signfoam? Easy to cut and machine, doesn't rot or take on water and holds any kind of paint. High Density Urethane is what manufacturers of pre-made moldings and trim are using and I would think it very applicable to custom work as well.

Roderick Treece · Post by **Roderick Treece** » Thu Mar 23, 2006 8:08 pm

My vote would be HDU primed with feather fill automotive primer that acrylic enamel top coat.
Roderick

Doug Bernhardt · Post by **Doug Bernhardt** » Thu Mar 23, 2006 11:01 pm

My vote is for almost anything other than HDU...unless it is backed with a rigid substrate is just TOO fragile...unless of course it is out of harms way.

joe cieslowski · Post by **joe cieslowski** » Fri Mar 24, 2006 10:50 am

I agree with Doug with a possible exception......30+ lb HDU may be strong enough but then cost becomes a factor. Extira my be a better solution.
This is a tough nut.

Joe