Two toned boston guild

Roderick Treece · Post by **Roderick Treece** » Sat Apr 08, 2006 1:06 pm

The client has a very nice logo that will work great for a two tone boston guild.Bright outlines and matt centers.
I have always done it the traditional way but I am thinking of useing a vynil mask to apply the matt centers ,peel off the mask and then water guild the bright lines.Then all I would need to do paint the backup outlines.
Any body have any experience with that.I am worried about mask resedue left on the glass being a probelm for the water guild.

Roderick

John Studden · Post by **John Studden** » Sat Apr 08, 2006 1:59 pm

Roderick, If you use a low tack mask like Gerbermask 1, you will not have a problem, just use a few outlines & peel as you go.....this stuff does not leave a residue. Don't forget to add the IVORY to the size, & flatten the outlines with some 0000 stell wool, should work well.......
Paint the outlines & centers at the same time, Water Gild the next day, why paint the outlines last...........

Roderick Treece · Post by **Roderick Treece** » Sat Apr 08, 2006 5:06 pm

John,
Didn't I already know the answer to this?I was just checking to see if you were awake.
Thanks
Brain dead in San Deigo
Roderick

Dan Seese · Post by **Dan Seese** » Tue Apr 11, 2006 10:41 am

Hi Roderick,
I haven't checked the site for quite a while. Just logged on and saw your post. I should be working on lettering a truck but thought this as good a diversion as any.
I've done window gilding with the GerberMask method a number of times. A couple of things I've found to be helpful:
If you use Japan Color mixed with some Fibroseal varnish for your outlines/shadows, it is much easier to weed the vinyl because the paint breaks off clean at the mask. If you use One Shot, you need to be pretty careful to weed it before it skins over. If you don't, it will lift your painted outlines.
When I paint my matte centers, I use a damp sponge to dab the varnished centers - it gives a nice uniform texture and eliminates brush strokes.
I like to add a weeding outline around the whole thing - 0.040". That way when I'm finished, I just pull that outline, which gives a separation from the surrounding mask. I'm not fighting the mask when I'm trying to remove it around the letters.
In some places the water gild won't go all the way to the painted outline but I find that if I mix a little gold bronzing powder in some varnish and back it up with that before the final backup, it hides it pretty well. I haven't used John's method of using steel wool to knock down the ridges on the outlines before gilding. Guess I'm afraid of messing up the matte center but if the varnish is dry that should be no problem. I'll have to give it a try.
Good luck, bro.
Back to work.
Dan

Doug Bernhardt · Post by **Doug Bernhardt** » Tue Apr 11, 2006 5:28 pm

Yeo Dan...the steel wool will give a nice satin sheen to the matt centres (assuming it's a dry varnish waiting for a water gild) Also....I've been using a drop or 2 of water tension breaker or Photo-flow from a photo supply shop rather than the ivory detergent...it works well also.

Roderick Treece · Post by **Roderick Treece** » Wed Apr 12, 2006 10:59 pm

Hi Doug and Dan,
Doug ,thanks for the tip on the photo flow.I remmeber that from my dark room days ,It's a final rinse for film right?I'll try it.How much do you use?One thing I didn't mension about this project is that it will be mirrored in the end so I will be adding hardner to all the paint so it can withstand the scrubbing it takes to get it clean enough to mirror.I did a sample of the mask for the matte centers and the outline,then waterguilded with23k.It can out great .I did have to back it up with gold as Dan suggested.Then I mirrored it with on probelms.
Nice to hear from you guy's again
Roderick

Doug Bernhardt · Post by **Doug Bernhardt** » Sat Apr 15, 2006 8:19 am

Roderick...just a drop or two. I got a small jar which is about3" high and2" around (sorry can't do ml to once conversions in my head) and figger thats about a lifetime supply