In the mid 70's when I started carving for dollars I wanted to introduce color into the work but to use stains, not paint. At the time I was using the usual, browntone, minwax stains which gave the work a sepia tone look. (I still do) I remembered in college we were taught that stains didn't have to be brown. Stain, like paint is basically a pigment, vehicle and a drier. Using Minwax"natural" stain (which is clear) I mixed in artists oil colors. This worked great. Although this stain is oil based, the painting technique is similar to painting with water colors......dark to light. This pic shows how I set up to stain. The flower looking dish is ceramic and is available from Dick Blick......the plastic ones don't work. My "pallete" is a cardboard divider used between the 2 layers of beer in a 30 pac. I have quite a few
. Get CHEAP brushes! They take a beating, being jabbed into all sorts of tight spots.
I stained the deer first and then everything is stained to it. I do it this way because once you have applied a coat of stain, stain of another color that may get on it can be easily wiped off.
Here it is finished...
Now I apply 4 brushed (2" foam brush and a short artists flat for the edge and carving) coats of Minwax Spar Urethane sanding with 220 paper and a green scotchbright on the carving. Minwax changed their formula over a year ago, doubleing the UV blockers (yea) and brought the dry time down to 4 hours from 6(hmmm). I wait the 4 hrs between the first three coats (applied on 1 day) and wait overnight before the 4th. Then I do the back. This gives the front 3 days of dry time.
There are two reasons that I use the minwax Spar Urethane. First, All the other clears I looked at said "remove any dirt, wax, etc." from the wood. Minwax has wax in it! That's a problem..... The Minwax Spar urethane is compatable. So I have no choice.
The second reason is when I deliver my signs, I give the collector written instructions on how to "refresh" THEIR signs as needed. Everyones familiar with the product line and you can get it anywhere. This solves the "how long will it hold up to the weather?" question. It's even available in a rattle can.
Now I mask the copy area with Avery paint mask and hand carve the letters through the mask. Then 2 coats of high build primer (Sign Prime tinted with Lamp Black Tints All),2 coats of 1Shot Speed Dry UV Clear, 1Shot fast size and gild with surface gold. The pin stripe around the boarder is just sized and gilded with patent pushed into the "V" with a short, very stiff brush. I do these 6 steps in a total elapsed time of 3 hours.
This gild method is the real test that Mike, and others, are doing for me. So, don't try this at home yet. (I'm on the fifth year of testing here thou.)
Now the mask is sanded with 80grit to break the bond between the letters and the mask.
Now the galvanized steel straps are applied, the cove is painted burgundy and a burgundy shade is painted on the letters.
Here is the template modified with the same carving.
Well, that's it. This is my basic process and I'd be happy to discuss any questions or comments.
This doesn"t show or discuss the carving techniques, but if some have an interest I could do that too.
I hope this may be of use to someone.
Thanks,
Joe
) This work is done mostly with a #3 12mm straight gouge, a #7 8mm fishtail gouge and a small detail knife. You will also notice here that the background is taking shape (the antlers are the most delacate of the elements so they are carved last).
Denver Chapter of the Letterheads