Thanks Larry and Doug!
I always felt that it is a personal choice whether I consider work to be fun or not. Given the 2 choices, I always opt for the fun!!!
I think it keeps me loose and creative.
Doug,
The panel is "stained" with 1Shot thinned with low temp reducer (about 30%) and wiped on with a rag. When it's dry (about 4 hrs) it's coated out with Minwax Helmsman Spar Urethane applied with a 2" foam brush (thin coats) scuffed with 220 sand paper and a green scotch brite. I wait at least 2 days before I mask and carve the letters.
The staining for the moose is done with Minwax Natural "stain". It's their regular stain without pigment. To this, I mix regular artists oil pigments and then make like I'm an artist. There are two "tricks" here that make this work. One, the surface of the carving can't be sanded. The tearing of the fibers by the grit renders control of the stain useless. Two, Eastern White Pine. Pinus Strobus has a unique density that I haven't found in other softwoods. With just a light coat of the MW natural, I can float the "stain" and work the colors. The western pines and cedar absorb the stains too quickly for good control which sort of muddies up the job. This can be mitigated to some extent by coating the carving with the MW natural first and let it dry. Then paint (or should I say stain). After staining the image, I usually wait about 12 to 24 hrs to let it dry......this can be speeded up with the use of a hair drier. When it's dry, I rub the carving with 0000 steel wool to remove any surface wax. This also brings out the highlights of the carving itself.
The carving is coated out at the same time as the rest of the panel with the MW Helmsman Spar Urethane.
Of course, as every carver has been told, Eastern White Pine doesn't hold fine detail. Well, if the wood doesn't hold the detail, I guess I'll just have to.....
Hope this is helpful......
Thanks Again,
Joe