Gilded bird.....a new twist

[vance galliher]

hahaahaaa.... as I'm about to start my gilding project on the carved bird, the architect now want the gilded bird to have the feeling of a Jackson Pollock painting...........what did he just say? That's right, an abstract drip painting rendered with gold leaf. The first test sample will be with torn piece of various karats (like skewings). For the second sample I thought about doing something with a large sampling of Mica powders. So the main question with the second method is ............Will the Mica hold up outdoors in extreme weather (Lake Tahoe, Calif), and would I need to clear coat it ? .....and if so with what? As always, I appreciate any opinions or other ideas.

[vance galliher]

.just spoke with Sepp Leaf and they thought Mica , not cleared, would be the best way to go............

[Danny Baronian]

Vance,

Sepp Leaf if the best source for information on mica and supplies.

I've spoken to Janice (I think), very knowledgeable on the products and how to use time. Make sure you look inside the bags / containers of mica. Viewing the color from the plastic sample bags is totally different than the actual contents.

Flash gild your project. Pour the mica in a sock, size the project with 1 shot or Lefranc and pounce on the powder when the size is still tacky.

When finished , roll over the project with an unused 3" foam roller to insure good adhesion of the mica. No need to clear. You can also burnish the mica some by buffing lightly with cotton.

Mica is the best choice since mica will not be affected by the elements, and will retain their color long after bronzing powders have oxidized. I have several projects that have been up in Truckee for several years, 20 miles from Tahoe that still look good.

Danny

[Catharine C. Kennedy]

What is flash gilding, Danny? :?:
Thanks-
Cat

[vance galliher]

.....I'm having some difficulty getting the Mica powder to look like paint drips. I first apply the powder by dipping a dry 1" flat into the bag of Mica, hold the brush above the sized surface (squeek tack-not wet). and tap/move the brush simultaneously.....it looks pretty good. But then when I pat the powder into the size, I loose the "flung" effect. Maybe I should try this when the size is still wet and wait for it to become drier before dealing with the excess of powder on top.I'll give that a go..............This bird has a 36" wingspan..............It still doesn't make sense to me to "splatter gild" this beautifully carved bird...but it's what the client wants. So I guess if one has enough "disposable" money you can ask for whatever.................

[Danny Baronian]

Experiment until you get a technique that works for you. Generally when 1 shot is used, it can be gilded within 10 minutes, it needs a more agressive tack than leaf. Apply the size heaver and tilt to get runs if that's the look they want then apply the mica in 5 - 10 minutes using a salt shaker loaded with mica. You can also try the grade school technique of dipping a toothbrush into the mica and flicking it on. After that, let the size dry.

Do this over clean paper, and reclaim any of the unused mica for future use.

Unless the project is all one tone, you can also blend colors, just as you would do 3 toned gold. Make sure there's a considerable difference between colors for good contrast.

(Flash gilding: applying mica powders over size by using a mop, japan brush, fitch or pounce bag)

[Larry White]

I think I would be inclined to add the texture via another medium, then gild over it, rather than trying to create the texture with the gold size.

[Danny Baronian]

Well why didn't you say so earlier Mr. White!

Amazing how the obvious is overlooked. Or isn't that obvious....

Good point.

[Kelly Thorson]

I'd be looking to Roderick Treece and Bruce Jackson for some input on this one......
Both of them are pretty good "effects" people with their innovative ideas. Seems to me a melding of the two styles would put you spot on.

[joe cieslowski]

I was thinking like Larry but I think you still might be able to do this in one step. Sal Cabera has developed a technique with Gorilla glue that might work here. Thin the glue about 50/50 with water and stir (stir like crazy). You should be able to make it run. it will foam a little so don't spread it too thick. The trick now is to wait (it doesn't take long) till the foam has a body but it's still sticky........apply powders and press lightly.
here's a link that might help
http://www.uksignboards.com/viewtopic.p ... bacdddc474
or
http://www.letterhead.com/ubb/ultimateb ... 37669.html

Practice!!!

Joe,

Makin Chips and Havin Fun!

[joe cieslowski]

Here's what I came up with.....Probably the bottom right works best.....straight G Glue.
Top right has AL leaf applied when the glue was tacky.

Hope this helps.

Joe,

Makin Chips and Havin Fun!

[vance galliher]

thanks Joe for taking the time to do the samples, but my concern with anything that has body to it is that it is going to coverup the beautiful detail (texture) of the carving. Imagine putting that stuff all over the wonderful eagle you recently carved....it would be a shame! I don't think these architect know what they're doing! I applied a fresh coat of size over what I had previously powdered and reapplied liberal amounts of various colorss..........will knock off the excess tomorrow and see how it looks.....

[vance galliher]

.....and it came out great !!.........the fine woodworker said...."this is what they want ! Give me a more refined sample.... and money is not an issue!".god I love those words !