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latex paint............

Hand Lettering topics: Sign Making, Design, Fabrication, Letterheads, Sign Books.

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vance galliher
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latex paint............

Post by vance galliher »

I am using more acrylic latex for backgrounds now, but other than spraying, how would you eliminate the texture that happens when it is rolled with a short nap pro tiz roller. Would a foam roller be better? I don't mind the textured effect, but when I apply gerbermask to render a graphic/lettering with One Shot, it’s had to get a good edge seal. Thanks for any suggestions.
Billy Pickett
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Post by Billy Pickett »

...After rolling a layer, I "pallet out" to remove most of the paint from the roller on another panel (or sheet of cardboard), then roll it again very lightly over the layer of paint. After giving the wet paint layer a moment to begin to set up, I can smooth out most of the higher paint marks with the 'dry' roller. This works for enamel too.
...My favorite rollers for latex are the cheap white ones. I now use the Tiz rollers for enamel back grounds only.
vance galliher
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Post by vance galliher »

I do exactly that Billy Bob with enamel and get a smooth bubble free finish. I've did the same with the latex, but it just doesn't seem to work as well. I'll try the foam roller later today and see if that helps..........thanks for the reply though.
Raymond Chapman
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Post by Raymond Chapman »

We use a 3/8" nap roller for acrylics. The foam ones leave too many bubbles and a rough texture. Since acrylics dry so quickly, the less "tickling" you do the better. Our procedure is to apply a rather heavy layer in parallel strips and then quickly go back and smooth out the overlaps....and then quit. Normally we just do a few passes before reloading the roller. With experience you get into a rhythm that goes quickly and without a lot of fuss. The more you try to smooth out the paint, the rougher the texture becomes.

For backgrounds and larger areas we use a HVLP spray gun and finish up the small panels and details with a brush.
Scooter Marriner
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Post by Scooter Marriner »

You can also add a little water to the paint to give it a longer open time - time for the orangepeel to settle down more. Water doesn't hurt the finish - it just takes longer to surface dry (45 minutes instead of 15). If the panel is laid out flat (horizontal) then there's no problem. If it is vertical, then add water very sparingly, to avoid sagging.
--- . -- Still a beginner
Kent Smith
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Post by Kent Smith »

Caution: not all latex paints allow the addition of water as a reducer. If they do, use distilled as the chlorine can cause a spotty finish. As with any paint, adding reducer or thinner lessens the amount of bonding resin and can cause early failure.
vance galliher
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Post by vance galliher »

thanks for all replies folks, However, even though I applied a light coat and didn't work it too much, and burnished my paintmask edges well, I still got slight bleeding all around every letter. Cleaned it all off with paint thinner..and now wished I had just used a solvent background from the start. I'll attempt to sand it down slightly and try again. Should I use calander vinyl as a mask? How does everyone mask over acrylic latex ?
Mike Jackson
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Post by Mike Jackson »

Vance,
Here's a tip.

Once you put down your mask onto the vinyl, give it a quick coat in the open areas using the background latex color. We use a foam brush. Let that dry, then paint your enamel color or gold size. The thin layer of latex will go into any crevice and seal it with an invisible matching color.

Mike Jackson
Mike Jackson / co-administrator
Golden Era Studios
Vintage Ornamental Clip art
Jackson Hole, WY

Photography site:
Teton Images
Jackson Hole photography blog:
Best of the Tetons
John Studden
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Post by John Studden »

The easy way out of the bleed situation is to use what is called a sealer coat, We use gerbermask on water based walls all the time with great results.......After applying & burnishing down the mask use the same color background paint to seal the edges of the vinyl, a light coat is all you need, just roll it on.....let this dry then apply your lettering color, when you take of the mask it will leave a crisp edge.........works great on textured surfaces & walls etc. Saves hours of touch up....try it you will be surprised. This technique was used a lot in Film & Commercial work....great for exterior walls. Another thing you could use would be clear shellac which gives about the same results..............Let me know what you think.
John Studden
Valencia Signs, California
vance galliher
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Post by vance galliher »

now we're talking!........... Mike and John............ looks like you read this about the same time and were thinking the same solution.........I'm painting some aluminum panels that I primed with Grip Gard metal primer, and coated with Ben Moore paint. I'm curious what the bkgd. latex seal coat will do with the mask...but I'll try that tomorrow and report back my findings.............sounds like a good tip...thanks!
vance galliher
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Post by vance galliher »

...... Mike and John. the tip worked like a charm...no bleeding whatsoever, nice and sharp I was concerned about having to wait for latex to dry before applying the enamel, thinking that when I removed the masking, it might pull up so background color....but it came up without a problem........ thanks again
Mike Jackson
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Post by Mike Jackson »

Sometimes, solutions to a problem are just way too easy! This is one of them.

Mike Jackson
Mike Jackson / co-administrator
Golden Era Studios
Vintage Ornamental Clip art
Jackson Hole, WY

Photography site:
Teton Images
Jackson Hole photography blog:
Best of the Tetons
Doug Bernhardt
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Post by Doug Bernhardt »

Here's another example of just how terrific this site can be. Although I have never neede this solution I'm sure that day will come. Quality posts.
Raymond Chapman
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Location: Temple. Texas

Post by Raymond Chapman »

Several years ago I heard this "trick" from Gary Anderson and use it all the time. Just one of those little simple things that actually work.
Tony Segale
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Post by Tony Segale »

I guess I'm a little confused here...

Vance, you handletter, dont' you?
Don't mean to sound harsh but I can't understand why roll coat the paint and then mask when you can save the mask and weed time and handletter from a computer pattern, that can look even better, because now you have the artist's hand involved.

But, I don't know.
and he took that golden hair and made a sweater for baby bear.
http://www.tonysegale.com
http://www.tonysegale.wordpress.com
vance galliher
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Post by vance galliher »

........yes, Tony, I have handlettered a few signs before PC, not a master by any means, but can handle a brush fairly well. But this was not smooth (although I have spent some time doing walls of different textures), and mask is relatively inexpensive, weeding is easy, and it didn’t take much time……if you didn’t count the two days and all the scewups trying to get it right…...hahaaa. As I said, it’s all just a learning experience to me…….. and that’s the fun part! Something else will come along that I can handletter....and as far as the artist hand ....there are plenty of other parts of the project where my "artist hand" is involved ..............stay well
.
Bruce Horton
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Post by Bruce Horton »

A variation on this technique came into play when my wife insisted that I paint our kitchen and dining room last year. Our walls have what is called a "knock down texture" that is popular in this part of the country. It's basically a very rough and uneven deep relief texture. In a new house, everything is one color, so that's easy. Wives sooner or later get other ideas on the colors they's like rooms to be. Of course, just applying painters tape to mask the color changes at the ceilings and adjoing room corners would result in dealing with a lot of seepage under the tape giving a very amaturish looking job. I know...I tried it a couple of times.

While at the paint store to get more tape, I asked the gentleman behind the counter what tips he might give on the problem and he gave me a smile like this was only the 12th time he had answered this question that day. The solution was to simply mask the straight line with blue painter's tape, then take a squeeze tube of flat acrylic latex caulk and apply some to your finger. Run your finger down the edge of the tape, wait ten minutes, apply your new color then immediately remove the tape. I couldn't believe how crisp the transition line was on that rough texture when I tried it. (There are craftsmen with special knowledge in every field. We just need to ask.)

I know this technique won't apply to signage very often, but in another life, I had the opportunity to do some museum work where we painted bold graphic images and screen printed details vertically on to textured walls. A lot of needless time was spent touching up seepage with small brushes. It looked OK from a distance, but I was never happy with end result. You know how it goes.

Wish I'd had this simple solution back then.
Keep your stick on the ice!
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