Welcome to The Hand Lettering Forum!
This is an interactive Bulletin Board on the topics of Sign making, design, fabrication, History, old Books and of coarse Letterheads, Keepers of the craft. The Hand Lettering Forum features links to resources, sign art history, techniques, and artists profiles. Learn more about Letterheads at https://theletterheads.com. Below you'll see Mchat has been added as a live communication portal for trial, and the Main forum Links are listed below.
This is an interactive Bulletin Board on the topics of Sign making, design, fabrication, History, old Books and of coarse Letterheads, Keepers of the craft. The Hand Lettering Forum features links to resources, sign art history, techniques, and artists profiles. Learn more about Letterheads at https://theletterheads.com. Below you'll see Mchat has been added as a live communication portal for trial, and the Main forum Links are listed below.
latex paint............
Moderators: Ron Percell, Mike Jackson, Danny Baronian
-
- Posts: 321
- Joined: Mon Apr 12, 2004 11:38 pm
- Location: springfield, or.
- Contact:
latex paint............
I am using more acrylic latex for backgrounds now, but other than spraying, how would you eliminate the texture that happens when it is rolled with a short nap pro tiz roller. Would a foam roller be better? I don't mind the textured effect, but when I apply gerbermask to render a graphic/lettering with One Shot, it’s had to get a good edge seal. Thanks for any suggestions.
-
- Posts: 118
- Joined: Mon Aug 02, 2004 11:59 am
...After rolling a layer, I "pallet out" to remove most of the paint from the roller on another panel (or sheet of cardboard), then roll it again very lightly over the layer of paint. After giving the wet paint layer a moment to begin to set up, I can smooth out most of the higher paint marks with the 'dry' roller. This works for enamel too.
...My favorite rollers for latex are the cheap white ones. I now use the Tiz rollers for enamel back grounds only.
...My favorite rollers for latex are the cheap white ones. I now use the Tiz rollers for enamel back grounds only.
-
- Posts: 321
- Joined: Mon Apr 12, 2004 11:38 pm
- Location: springfield, or.
- Contact:
-
- Posts: 345
- Joined: Fri Apr 09, 2004 5:50 pm
- Location: Temple. Texas
We use a 3/8" nap roller for acrylics. The foam ones leave too many bubbles and a rough texture. Since acrylics dry so quickly, the less "tickling" you do the better. Our procedure is to apply a rather heavy layer in parallel strips and then quickly go back and smooth out the overlaps....and then quit. Normally we just do a few passes before reloading the roller. With experience you get into a rhythm that goes quickly and without a lot of fuss. The more you try to smooth out the paint, the rougher the texture becomes.
For backgrounds and larger areas we use a HVLP spray gun and finish up the small panels and details with a brush.
For backgrounds and larger areas we use a HVLP spray gun and finish up the small panels and details with a brush.
-
- Posts: 14
- Joined: Thu Apr 24, 2008 12:51 pm
- Location: Oakland, Califoria
- Contact:
You can also add a little water to the paint to give it a longer open time - time for the orangepeel to settle down more. Water doesn't hurt the finish - it just takes longer to surface dry (45 minutes instead of 15). If the panel is laid out flat (horizontal) then there's no problem. If it is vertical, then add water very sparingly, to avoid sagging.
--- . -- Still a beginner
-
- Posts: 569
- Joined: Fri Dec 31, 2004 6:41 pm
- Location: Estes Park, CO
- Contact:
-
- Posts: 321
- Joined: Mon Apr 12, 2004 11:38 pm
- Location: springfield, or.
- Contact:
thanks for all replies folks, However, even though I applied a light coat and didn't work it too much, and burnished my paintmask edges well, I still got slight bleeding all around every letter. Cleaned it all off with paint thinner..and now wished I had just used a solvent background from the start. I'll attempt to sand it down slightly and try again. Should I use calander vinyl as a mask? How does everyone mask over acrylic latex ?
-
- Site Admin
- Posts: 1705
- Joined: Tue Apr 06, 2004 11:02 pm
- Location: Jackson Hole, WY
- Contact:
Vance,
Here's a tip.
Once you put down your mask onto the vinyl, give it a quick coat in the open areas using the background latex color. We use a foam brush. Let that dry, then paint your enamel color or gold size. The thin layer of latex will go into any crevice and seal it with an invisible matching color.
Mike Jackson
Here's a tip.
Once you put down your mask onto the vinyl, give it a quick coat in the open areas using the background latex color. We use a foam brush. Let that dry, then paint your enamel color or gold size. The thin layer of latex will go into any crevice and seal it with an invisible matching color.
Mike Jackson
Mike Jackson / co-administrator
Golden Era Studios
Vintage Ornamental Clip art
Jackson Hole, WY
Photography site:
Teton Images
Jackson Hole photography blog:
Best of the Tetons
Golden Era Studios
Vintage Ornamental Clip art
Jackson Hole, WY
Photography site:
Teton Images
Jackson Hole photography blog:
Best of the Tetons
-
- Posts: 150
- Joined: Wed Jul 28, 2004 11:40 am
The easy way out of the bleed situation is to use what is called a sealer coat, We use gerbermask on water based walls all the time with great results.......After applying & burnishing down the mask use the same color background paint to seal the edges of the vinyl, a light coat is all you need, just roll it on.....let this dry then apply your lettering color, when you take of the mask it will leave a crisp edge.........works great on textured surfaces & walls etc. Saves hours of touch up....try it you will be surprised. This technique was used a lot in Film & Commercial work....great for exterior walls. Another thing you could use would be clear shellac which gives about the same results..............Let me know what you think.
John Studden
Valencia Signs, California
Valencia Signs, California
-
- Posts: 321
- Joined: Mon Apr 12, 2004 11:38 pm
- Location: springfield, or.
- Contact:
now we're talking!........... Mike and John............ looks like you read this about the same time and were thinking the same solution.........I'm painting some aluminum panels that I primed with Grip Gard metal primer, and coated with Ben Moore paint. I'm curious what the bkgd. latex seal coat will do with the mask...but I'll try that tomorrow and report back my findings.............sounds like a good tip...thanks!
-
- Posts: 321
- Joined: Mon Apr 12, 2004 11:38 pm
- Location: springfield, or.
- Contact:
...... Mike and John. the tip worked like a charm...no bleeding whatsoever, nice and sharp I was concerned about having to wait for latex to dry before applying the enamel, thinking that when I removed the masking, it might pull up so background color....but it came up without a problem........ thanks again
-
- Site Admin
- Posts: 1705
- Joined: Tue Apr 06, 2004 11:02 pm
- Location: Jackson Hole, WY
- Contact:
Sometimes, solutions to a problem are just way too easy! This is one of them.
Mike Jackson
Mike Jackson
Mike Jackson / co-administrator
Golden Era Studios
Vintage Ornamental Clip art
Jackson Hole, WY
Photography site:
Teton Images
Jackson Hole photography blog:
Best of the Tetons
Golden Era Studios
Vintage Ornamental Clip art
Jackson Hole, WY
Photography site:
Teton Images
Jackson Hole photography blog:
Best of the Tetons
-
- Posts: 1077
- Joined: Fri Apr 09, 2004 9:29 am
- Location: Ottawa Canada
- Contact:
-
- Posts: 345
- Joined: Fri Apr 09, 2004 5:50 pm
- Location: Temple. Texas
-
- Posts: 702
- Joined: Thu Apr 08, 2004 10:20 am
I guess I'm a little confused here...
Vance, you handletter, dont' you?
Don't mean to sound harsh but I can't understand why roll coat the paint and then mask when you can save the mask and weed time and handletter from a computer pattern, that can look even better, because now you have the artist's hand involved.
But, I don't know.
Vance, you handletter, dont' you?
Don't mean to sound harsh but I can't understand why roll coat the paint and then mask when you can save the mask and weed time and handletter from a computer pattern, that can look even better, because now you have the artist's hand involved.
But, I don't know.
and he took that golden hair and made a sweater for baby bear.
http://www.tonysegale.com
http://www.tonysegale.wordpress.com
http://www.tonysegale.com
http://www.tonysegale.wordpress.com
-
- Posts: 321
- Joined: Mon Apr 12, 2004 11:38 pm
- Location: springfield, or.
- Contact:
........yes, Tony, I have handlettered a few signs before PC, not a master by any means, but can handle a brush fairly well. But this was not smooth (although I have spent some time doing walls of different textures), and mask is relatively inexpensive, weeding is easy, and it didn’t take much time……if you didn’t count the two days and all the scewups trying to get it right…...hahaaa. As I said, it’s all just a learning experience to me…….. and that’s the fun part! Something else will come along that I can handletter....and as far as the artist hand ....there are plenty of other parts of the project where my "artist hand" is involved ..............stay well
.
.
-
- Posts: 8
- Joined: Wed Oct 10, 2007 3:28 pm
- Location: Colorado
A variation on this technique came into play when my wife insisted that I paint our kitchen and dining room last year. Our walls have what is called a "knock down texture" that is popular in this part of the country. It's basically a very rough and uneven deep relief texture. In a new house, everything is one color, so that's easy. Wives sooner or later get other ideas on the colors they's like rooms to be. Of course, just applying painters tape to mask the color changes at the ceilings and adjoing room corners would result in dealing with a lot of seepage under the tape giving a very amaturish looking job. I know...I tried it a couple of times.
While at the paint store to get more tape, I asked the gentleman behind the counter what tips he might give on the problem and he gave me a smile like this was only the 12th time he had answered this question that day. The solution was to simply mask the straight line with blue painter's tape, then take a squeeze tube of flat acrylic latex caulk and apply some to your finger. Run your finger down the edge of the tape, wait ten minutes, apply your new color then immediately remove the tape. I couldn't believe how crisp the transition line was on that rough texture when I tried it. (There are craftsmen with special knowledge in every field. We just need to ask.)
I know this technique won't apply to signage very often, but in another life, I had the opportunity to do some museum work where we painted bold graphic images and screen printed details vertically on to textured walls. A lot of needless time was spent touching up seepage with small brushes. It looked OK from a distance, but I was never happy with end result. You know how it goes.
Wish I'd had this simple solution back then.
While at the paint store to get more tape, I asked the gentleman behind the counter what tips he might give on the problem and he gave me a smile like this was only the 12th time he had answered this question that day. The solution was to simply mask the straight line with blue painter's tape, then take a squeeze tube of flat acrylic latex caulk and apply some to your finger. Run your finger down the edge of the tape, wait ten minutes, apply your new color then immediately remove the tape. I couldn't believe how crisp the transition line was on that rough texture when I tried it. (There are craftsmen with special knowledge in every field. We just need to ask.)
I know this technique won't apply to signage very often, but in another life, I had the opportunity to do some museum work where we painted bold graphic images and screen printed details vertically on to textured walls. A lot of needless time was spent touching up seepage with small brushes. It looked OK from a distance, but I was never happy with end result. You know how it goes.
Wish I'd had this simple solution back then.
Keep your stick on the ice!