Bronzing Powder How?

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Billy Pickett
Posts: 115
Joined: Mon Aug 02, 2004 11:59 am

Bronzing Powder How?

Post by Billy Pickett » Mon Sep 27, 2004 12:06 pm

...I know to mix some bronzing powder w. varnish to make a "homemede" gold paint. Other than that, I wonder if there is a better or "right" way to apply the stuff. Anybody have any advice or tips?

...Thanks BP.

Mike Jackson
Site Admin
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Joined: Tue Apr 06, 2004 11:02 pm
Location: Jackson Hole, WY

Post by Mike Jackson » Mon Sep 27, 2004 1:17 pm

Also try brush lettering a graphic with a gold size/paint mixture just as you would if gilding. Then, when the size has set up, dip a cosmetic pad into some bronzing powder and wipe it across the size. It will stick to the size in the same manner as leaf, however the powder will be more on the surface and not buried in the clear. I've heard of people using this with the fine mica powder, too. Bronzing powders will often turn brown, not sure about the mica powders.

Thanks for the post. It would make a good Signmaking 101 post if anyone has an extensive background using them.

Mike Jackson
Mike Jackson / co-administrator
Golden Era Studios
Vintage Ornamental Clip art
Jackson Hole, WY

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Darryl Gomes
Posts: 14
Joined: Thu Apr 08, 2004 7:04 pm
Location: Underwood, Ontario Canada

Post by Darryl Gomes » Mon Sep 27, 2004 6:24 pm

I have used a lot of Mica powder the way Mike describes. It is called "Flash Gilding". I normally use mica for outlining letters.

1/ I will paint the sign in a normal fashion and let dry.

2/ Then I use and egg white mixed in a pint of water to put a wash over the sign so mica doesn't stick everywhere(same as for gold).

3/ Size the outline of the letter with quick size. I use quick size because I find that you don't get any brighter shine with slow like you can with real gold.

4/ Wait for the size to come to tack, usually tackier than if you gild with real leaf. More like gilding with aluminum or thicker leaves than gold.

5/ I use a gilders mop but any make-up brush will do to apply the mica powder. gently dip the brush in the bottle of mica and push it around over the size. You don't need a lot to cover a lot of area.

6/ I usually wait an hour or so for the size to dry some more and wipe the sign with water to clean off the excess and the egg wash.

I believe that Mica ia a ground stone and that it will not tarnish like bronze powders will.

I have also mixed it with clear and sprayed it to make gold blends on metallic gold 1-Shot.

Also.. I have used Mica mixed with shellac to back up chipped and gilded glass. This can prove very economical to backing up with oil size and patent leaf to cover the holidays you always get with gilding chipped glass. The colour of "Majestic Gold Mica" that I buy from Canadian Signcrafters seems very close to real gold when used like this. You really have to look close to find the holes in the real gold.



Mike, I really enjoy reading this forum and you are doing a great job here. I will try and do more of my part and post more often here.

Thank You
Darryl Gomes
Underwood Ontario

Billy Pickett
Posts: 115
Joined: Mon Aug 02, 2004 11:59 am

Post by Billy Pickett » Tue Sep 28, 2004 11:50 am

...Since bronze will tarnish I will clear it. Will it tarnish anyway (under the clear) like silver does?

...Is the mica powder the same stuff that Rick G. sold for acid etching? If so, good... I have some, somewhere.

...Thanks yall.

Danny Baronian
Site Admin
Posts: 624
Joined: Wed Apr 07, 2004 2:16 am

Post by Danny Baronian » Tue Sep 28, 2004 12:42 pm

Mica powders and mica flakes are both mica, but are different in that the mica flakes are in a a natural state, i.e. ground into flakes and are whitish in color and used for acid embossing. Mica powders are ground into powder the consistency of powdered sugar and colored.

Rick carried both, but are for different applications. Sepp Leaf carries the mica powders in about 30 different metallic colors.
Danny Baronian
Baronian Mfg.
CNC Routing & Fabrication

Brian the Brush UK
Posts: 43
Joined: Mon Jul 05, 2004 2:19 pm
Location: Yorkshire, England, UK

Post by Brian the Brush UK » Wed Sep 29, 2004 4:05 am

I have used gold powders in the past by filling an empty plastic washing up liquid bottle with the powderand, replacing the top and them blowing the powder onto the work, works well but I think all powders will tarnish even if sealed with varnish, there is no substitute for the real thing.... goldleaf.
Good luck with the project, Brian.
With a stroke more imagination.

vance galliher
Posts: 307
Joined: Mon Apr 12, 2004 11:38 pm
Location: springfield, or.

Post by vance galliher » Thu Oct 14, 2004 9:53 pm

i use mica powders whenever i can. same as darryl discribed ( good tip about the wash ). i often mix several colors as in a gradation, or colors together making new colors..... the sample pack is a great deal, about 40 bucks...24 packs of different colors. a little goes a long ways...

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