I am going to gild a small inscription on a hardware store window today for practice on site work.
What kind of varnish do I use to back up my back up? Do I need to back all up with varnish? I will be using back up black. The only varnish I have on hand is Damar, & I have yet to try it. I don't have the Resin Gel that is needed to use it either. Is there anything the hardware store may have to use?
Hope I don't sound stupid, never have tried to do matt gilding yet, so I know now I need the hardner with the Damar for that. So much to learn.....and also, no, I am not doing any matt centers, I am only asking if that same varnish is ok to use to back up it all, if indeed i DO need to back up with varnish at all.
One more thing, I might try using a computer cut paint mask for the shadow & outlines, & was going to lay it first, use the back up black, then peel it away & water gild it. Will this work ok? I was concerned that maybe the adhesive from the transfer tape might contaminate the glass before I gild it.
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This is an interactive Bulletin Board on the topics of Sign making, design, fabrication, History, old Books and of coarse Letterheads, Keepers of the craft. The Hand Lettering Forum features links to resources, sign art history, techniques, and artists profiles. Learn more about Letterheads at https://theletterheads.com. Below you'll see Mchat has been added as a live communication portal for trial, and the Main forum Links are listed below.
Back Up Varnish
Moderators: Ron Percell, Mike Jackson, Danny Baronian
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...Hi Bobbie,
If your lettering has outlines (preferably black) they can 'protect' the gold. I've had too many jobs that I backed up w. clear varnish deteriorate. Other than a bad varnish ol, the work was fine. The varnish or paint Ol may (somewhat help to) protect the lettering from goof window cleaners (and their squeegees). I always inform the client that they can clean the window w. paper or cloth towels and common window cleaner, BUT ONLY GENTLY. Now, I use painted ol's whenever possible.
...I believe that damar is for letter center embossing ONLY. And for it to ever dry, you will have to add 'quick rubbing' varnish to it anyway. If you had to include clear ols, the quick is the best for them (if you can find it). One shot fast size is OK to use too...
...Painting the outlines first and then gilding is handy too. If you are good enough, you could just brush them. But is you have to use a plotter... that is ok. Be sure the paint is 100% dry, before gilding. Add a drop of dish detergent to your water size. Use the best 23k glass gold. (LIke Monarch) Lesser karats and quality gold do not 'naturally' lay down to as nice a burnish as good 23...
...So many things can and will go wrong on site. Perhaps your studio may be a better place for you to be practicing and perfecting these techniques. ...good luck!
If your lettering has outlines (preferably black) they can 'protect' the gold. I've had too many jobs that I backed up w. clear varnish deteriorate. Other than a bad varnish ol, the work was fine. The varnish or paint Ol may (somewhat help to) protect the lettering from goof window cleaners (and their squeegees). I always inform the client that they can clean the window w. paper or cloth towels and common window cleaner, BUT ONLY GENTLY. Now, I use painted ol's whenever possible.
...I believe that damar is for letter center embossing ONLY. And for it to ever dry, you will have to add 'quick rubbing' varnish to it anyway. If you had to include clear ols, the quick is the best for them (if you can find it). One shot fast size is OK to use too...
...Painting the outlines first and then gilding is handy too. If you are good enough, you could just brush them. But is you have to use a plotter... that is ok. Be sure the paint is 100% dry, before gilding. Add a drop of dish detergent to your water size. Use the best 23k glass gold. (LIke Monarch) Lesser karats and quality gold do not 'naturally' lay down to as nice a burnish as good 23...
...So many things can and will go wrong on site. Perhaps your studio may be a better place for you to be practicing and perfecting these techniques. ...good luck!
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- Posts: 79
- Joined: Mon Jul 25, 2005 6:18 pm
- Location: Jamestown,PA
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- Posts: 79
- Joined: Mon Jul 25, 2005 6:18 pm
- Location: Jamestown,PA
One more thing....I have practiced a lot at home, so what I really meant was that going "on site" is the practice part! I know the guy at the store, he is a very nice handicapped guy, & I have wanted to do something very nice for him for some time. I have never done gilding on site on a storefront window, & this will not be very big, so I think it will be a good start, so when I get my first paying job I will know what to expect.
Thank you so much Billy!
Thank you so much Billy!
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- Posts: 150
- Joined: Wed Jul 28, 2004 11:40 am
Bobbie, Use the back up black for your outlines, add 5-10% 1-shot hardener to it, makes it much tougher for cleaning/rubbing afterwards. If you are doing small matte centers use 1 shot 1 hour size, anything on the big side would be better done with 12 hour & left overnight.
Do as Billy said & add a couple of drops of Ivory washing up liquid to your regular size to pull the Gold to your outlines.
If you want to attend a Gold Leaf workshop Noel Weber & myself are holding one in Boise at the end of October, we will be covering all these techniques, we would like to see you there...
Do as Billy said & add a couple of drops of Ivory washing up liquid to your regular size to pull the Gold to your outlines.
If you want to attend a Gold Leaf workshop Noel Weber & myself are holding one in Boise at the end of October, we will be covering all these techniques, we would like to see you there...
John Studden
Valencia Signs, California
Valencia Signs, California
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- Joined: Mon Jul 25, 2005 6:18 pm
- Location: Jamestown,PA
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