Gold leaf on satin black paint...

[Scarlett Rickard]

I am painting and gilding my mate's matt black GMC truck, and I just want to check something with you before I embark on using gold leaf rather than a gold paint... the truck is painted with satin black automotive paint. I have pinstriped matt black motorbikes before but never tried gilding them... I am a little nervous that if there is a bit of moisture in the air I will have trouble with the gold sticking outside of the size, particularly on the line around the 'Indian' logo on the main panels, and as it's matt I can't touch it up with black paint or T cut the gold off...

How would you remove excess gold in this situation?

So far I am considering a gloss black outline around the gold to cover the edges!

Thanks!

[Kent Smith]

If the automotive finish is cured, I cannot imagine that the gold will stick to it. Just test an open area first with a piece of gold. It should rub off with a damp chamois.

[Scarlett Rickard]

Great, thanks Kent, I will give it a go... I don't want to make a mess of this one or my friend may never speak to me again! ha ha

[Roderick Treece]

Scarlett,
Love that truck. I used to have a studio across the street from an indian bike restorer.

If you take fine white pounce or shadow kaolin and give the whole surface a light dusting first ,then blow off the excess dust you'll be go to go. Size it , gild it , clear it, then wipe it off with water.

Go Girl !!!!

Roderick

[Kent Smith]

I would only use the kaolin if there is a sticking problem.

[Scarlett Rickard]

Thanks Roderick -

If I put plenty of whiting on there it should be safe!

I am only concerned because I gilded a number 7 on our front door and the moisture in the air made the gloss paint on the door a little sticky and I had a bit of trouble with the gold sticking to it - although I think that was because I hadn't put quite enough whiting on there. I used transfer leaf too, which of course means applying a bit of pressure... would you recommend I used loose leaf for this job (I was considering transfer would be easier because of working outside)?

I want to do a really nice job on this one as it's going to get a lot of attention, and I don't gild often enough to feel very proficient!

Thanks! I will show pics when it's done...

[DAVE SMITH]

Hi Scarlett. I sometimes use whiting/Kaolin for all the same reasons stated here but as Kent mentioned you don't always need it with certain sprayed finishes.Do some tests by just pressing the gold onto the bodywork to see what happens. I would use loose leaf as I also find this gives much better results for the gild ,you can apply the gold from the book or by using wax paper to pick it up and the best one of all a Smith Tip! ,only kidding ....probably the wax paper would be the way to go. but a tip could be used also.
Roll the paper directly over the gold press it down with a roller or your hand and you are good to go.
Good luck my dear....!
Dave

[Kent Smith]

Just a note about patent leaf or wax paper technique versus loose leaf. If the gold is going to stick to the background it will not matter which gold you use. Either it will stick or not.

[Doug Bernhardt]

And my 2 cents worth. Just size and gild with the test mentioned. I wouldn't even bother with the test except that it will put you heart at ease. The chalk or kaolin will be an excellent choice for a glossy painted surface but those automotive finishes cure like no tomorrow. Also, I just have to say how much I enjoy seeing your photos here. They are very "English" and it's such a treat to see the signage from an area "LOOK" like the area. Too often we see the " Gary Anderson Look" (which he does SOOOOOOO well) in places like Italy or the the UK.

[Scarlett Rickard]

Hi Doug - thanks for the tip... and the comment about my signs. I love traditional British signwriting, particularly the simple stuff you get on brickwork and shop fronts done by jobbing decorators, it's a true folk art.

Well... I did it! Thanks for all your help and advice, it worked fine in the end, despite pouring down halfway through gilding (of course, that's England for ya! ha ha), but as you said, that flat automotive finish didn't really attract the gold too much, even with rain on it. I have a little bit more to do on it yet, the slogan "You can't wear out an Indian Scout" on the back door.

Just one question... a friend of mine has recommended that I clear it, as it is obviously going to have to be washed fairly regularly. I was thinking of using the One Shot UV clear (which I have to hand) - what would you recommend? I know that two-pack epoxy stuff would be harder wearing but I haven't got the facilities to spray.

Thanks again! Hope you like it... I actually finished it off at the Chop & Rod show in Surrey at the weekend, and it got a lot of attention there, it seems to have completely changed the way people perceive the truck, which is great.

[Scarlett Rickard]

.

[Scarlett Rickard]

I ended up using transfer leaf in the end, I chickened out! ha ha

[Kent Smith]

We have discussed the clearcoat issue on other threads before but for this case, I would suggest the two-component. The two primary companies that make the product for sign use, Matthews and Akzo, have a rolling and brushing additive/hardener, making it suitable for brushing. I would have used it before the other painting as the two component will likely lift the paints. Option two would be multiple (3) thin coats of the UV clear.

[Tony Segale]

use of the shadow koalin is very good, better than cutting that potatoe in half...
myself, I roll the leaf right out of the book from the bottom of the area up...

but the best thing about this post and job, is to see someone actually signwriting and gilding in the traditional method!
the handlettering still survives, beautiful work, this is the art that keeps me coming back...only way to handle it.

just like the good ol' days!

[Tony Segale]

oh yeah, and your doing it with your right hand, too.
that really must be hard....

[Robare M. Novou]

Must be a New Trend in Painted Vehicles.