Glass Gilding Final Clearcoat

[bob gamache]

Hi everyone
I'm sure that you've heard this question before, and I don't mean to bore you but what would you guys recommend for the final protective clearcoat for a glass gilding job. Lately I've been using 'gilders window spar' from letterhead sign. But it seems to want to attack the 'gilders backup black' if brushed over a couple of times, even after waiting for the backup paint to dry for a couple of hours.

thanks in advance
Bob

[vance galliher]

Bob, I'm not sure why you want to clear coat except for the edge, but maybe you could apply a coat shellac over the area you plan to clear.

[bob gamache]

Thanks Vance, I'll give the shellac a try. I clear my jobs (the Store entrance doors)to give a extra coat of protection against window washing chemicals. Plus the jobs look more neat/clean and finished from the inside at close distance with an even finish.

[John Studden]

I have replied to this same question in the past, the clear coats always seem to break down faster than the back-up enamels, I have not clear coated a window job in more than ten years. With Gilders back up enamel & hardener there is really no need, I personally don't think it looks more finished with a clear coat, but less so ............A minature sticker applied to the back of one of the letters or somewhere visible to a window cleaner with instructions or a "no squeegee" image is a good idea, & more importantly a word with the owner about how to look after their Gold Job should do it , squeegee around the work , an occasional wipe over the image with a damp cloth is all that is needed, window cleaners are usually in too much of a rush or just plain ignorant of what they are doing....just my opinion...............Shellac will not be any help in this situation.

[Roderick Treece]

"Well , go on then , Don't clear coat it , I dare ya . I will !! "

The KID

[bob gamache]

Thanks John, I really appreciate the feedback! Seems like that clears up some issues if your jobs are still holding up after 10 years without clear.

I always put hardener in my backup paint but wasn't sure if that was going to be durable enough on its own. I comunicate in detail with the shop owners about window washing, but still have had several jobs wiped out because of careless washing. Like you said, the window washers are in a rush and don't care.

..............Rod, thanks & your plane ticket to the east coast is on the way, un-cleared!

[Doug Bernhardt]

I've been using the window spar and in Canadian winters I wouldn't go without it. Window washers need to be made aware as they put anti-freeze and stuff like that in their solutions. Great paint removers.

[bob gamache]

Thanks for the feedback Doug!

[Kent Smith]

A few thoughts: Shellac will not adhere well to bare glass. The reason we used to use a clear was to protect the more brittle Japan color that was used as backup. The hardener toughens up the backup well enough and when used in enamel for an outline for instance, allows it to be protective as well. Stephen always said that gettting paints and varnishes to stick to glass requires a bit of black magic anyway, so the hardener just helps it to protect itself. Having said that, an extra coat of varnish, with hardener, can help protect the job in harsher conditions.

[bob gamache]

Thanks Kent
What varnish would you recommend?
Referring to the post on the blue leaf oriental lettering I noticed that you mentioned 1 shot quick size w/hardener as an overall final coat. Will that do the trick? Or should I stick with the window spar.

thanks again

[vance galliher]

Bob's comment of...."But it seems to want to attack the 'gilders backup black' .." is why I suggested shellac over the backup paint (not clear glass). I use shellac over paint on glass work whenever I don't want to disturbe the previous color application and it seems to work just fine. Perhaps I misunderstood what he wanted to do..I thought he just wanted to protect the backup paint from being "attact" by the clear he was applying............

[David Slade]

My experience is limited but here is my simple rules-of-thumb...

1. Don't use the same type of paint on top of each other(especially LACQUER).

2. Water based doesn't interact with anything that has dried.

Plenty of exceptions I am sure, but works for me.

[Kent Smith]

Yes Vance, that is what I thought, intermediate coat of shellac helps with the pickup issue, just don't expect an overlap onto the glass to last.

There are a number of varnishes, many of which are not available anymore. My favorite would have been McMurtry Rubberized Foor Spar... Ron has a window clear, fast gold size or quick size, window spar if you can find some, all will work equally. The plain alkyd, sign finishing clear, can be hardened but it is really susceptible to UV and abraision.

[bob gamache]

Thanks Kent!