Quills

[Doug Bernhardt]

As of late I've haven't been able to get my usual brushes (Raphael) and am now using the French masters more and more. Now the issue is how the heck do you'all manage to keep the handles on? Tried some epoxy a few weeks ago and it didn't hold for long and today when I had a fishing trip into the bottom of the brush wash pail decided it was time for some serious advice. Thanx in advance

[joe cieslowski]

I know some guys use heat shrink tubing.....

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Heat-shrink_tubing

Get it at auto stores or Radio Shack?

Joe

[Kent Smith]

I suggest using your carving talents to shape the wood handle as close to size of the quill as possible. Then a spot of waterbased wood glue (don't overdo it) on the end would cure in the base. Wait a day or two. If the glue appears to not be dry, give the hairs a quick rinse in hydrogen peroxide, then rinse in isopropyl alcohol which will dry out the moisture. Then oil to preserve the hair.

[Wayne Osborne]

Hi Doug,
Try dipping the wooden handle first into clean water- then into very fine blast sand- then push firmly into the quill.
I bet you can't pull that sucker out then !

[Doug Bernhardt]

Well.....first I'll try the shrink tubes as that will be easy peasy and down the list from there if it doesn't work. In fact when I pull out a new one will try the glue etc right off the bat. No sand blasting anywhere around here although I bet it would hold like no tomorrow. Thanx guys.

[Jerry Berg]

Doug,

The first two (and last two) french master brushes I bought had the same thing happen to them. I used the heat shrink tubing and it's still holding on. Make sure the quill is pressed well against the handle before heating the tube or it gets more wobbly than they already are, with that cheap flexible plastic they use! Mine where #1 outliner brushes.

[Tony Segale]

Percy,

Few years back, last set of quills hit the trash can, never used 'em since.

I only use metal ferrulle, black handled red sables from Wrights of Lymm.

clean 'em, oil 'em and i can still count all the haaarrs, in 'em.

English make some things very well,
but not many.

[Leo Calleros]

I have this problem sometimes with my brushes. One of my solutions was to shape the brush handle where it goes into the ferrule so it matches it as close as possible but with a slightly larger diameter higher up on the handle. It takes some work but its not too hard. I do it on my lathe with some sand paper but could easily be done by hand, just quicker turning it.

I then cut a small groove with the edge of a file on the handle about a quarter inch from where the top of the ferrule will be. After I have all that, I heat the quill and handle with a heat gun to soften the plastic quill and keep the handle from cooling the quill too fast. With the handle secured on a vise, I put the quill on after heating and quickly wrap it on with some brass wire where the groove is. It takes a little practice to get the wire on but once you secure the handles on with the fitted handle to the ferrule, they are on for good.

Its kind of a bit of work but I can spend a whole Sunday doing this with the radio on and just forget about all my problems.

[Jim Moser]

A drop of Krazy Glue works for me....

[Patrick Mackle]

I use 3M weather strip adhesive. Find it in auto part stores in a tube. Comes in yellow or black. Sets instantly and permanently IF you apply it to both pieces, pull them apart momentarily and blow on it quickly until it "strings" and then assemble the brush. NO SOLVENT will break it down (at least nothing that you would be workin' with)
ALSO it is just a GREAT adhesive tool to have around the shop. I use it extensively for whippin' up instant sand blast fixtures for blasting and painting. It's quicker than epoxy, and resilient as will. It will stick to practically anything, epoxy can't do that!
When I was an auto mechanic, we affectionately referred to it as "elephant snot". Great Stuff.
Pat