Screen Mesh

[Mark Summers]

What are some of your screen mesh preferences some of you
might be using in monofilament? I'm guessing some of you
might even use different meshes depending on the work.
I found a site that will produce your screens with your art
and send you the burnt screens pretty reasonably I think.
The investment in the photo screen printing could be daunting
for some. Out of Washington; http://www.westarsolutions.com
** this question is for glass work

Mark

[John Studden]

For most of my screen Gilding jobs I use 180-200 mesh, this will hold a pretty fine line without sawtoothing, For our last workshop at Noel's that is what we used.............

[Mark Summers]

Thanks John. That's what I needed to hear. Hope you had a
great workshop. Your glass work is great!

Mark

[erik winkler]

The workshop was great!
And John is the screening champ, learned a lot from him.

Erik

[John Studden]

While at Noel's I noticed something interesting with the Wooden screen we used for the gold backup, we started the job 3 weeks before people arrived so that the acid etching could be done. The screen was registered to the glass, all srews locked down & the registration blocks were both taped & screwed to stop any movement. When it was time to screen the backup 3 weeks later at the Class the registration was out about 1/16" over the length, nothing had moved but the screen had grown in the damper weather since we used it before when the weather was a lot warmer, It wanted to turn back to being a Tree. That does not sound like much but the oulines were only .050" or less in places, that meant a re-rgistration. I normally use Aluminum frames only, much lighter & they do not twist after a few washes............Something to watch out for!

[bob gamache]

thank you John! Good point.

[Mark Summers]

I have Hix retensionable frames (rectangle tube) but I was
guessing they might not work on a vertical surface as they
would be too heavy.
I would think in terms of double back tape for holding a screen
in place.

Mark

[John Studden]

Better to use wooden blocks or maybe blocks with threaded adjusters also....double stick those to the window then just drop the screen in place when ready, it can be preloaded before placing it there, that way there is less likely to be ink dripping everywhere.
Make sure you have enough standoff from the glass, about 1/8" should do it depending on the tightness of the mesh. This can be done on your own if the screen is not too big, a bigger image may require a helper. I usually use 3 blocks, placement will depend on whether you are right or left handed or which direction you pull the squeegee........................