First Brilliant Cut GLass Piece

[Ingrid Mager]

Well, I admit that I may not know the fist darn thing about hand lettering or signage, but I WAS first introduced to Brilliant Cutting at this forum (actually, "wheel cut glass", as I learned the term "brilliant cut" really refers to one very specific cut), so I thought I would post PIX of my very first piece.

The hardest part for me was figuring out how to get the right wheels and make and shape the polishing wheels, and then just how to do the smoothing. Though full of little goofs, all in all I am pleased with this as a first attempt, my biggest critique being that is is very overworked as a result of trying to fix all the boo-boos. (A couple spots still need more re-polished if you look close) To me, a piece loses a certain crispness when worked so hard. However, the next piece is already going much better.

Also I think the obscuring could be done with a little finer grit, not because I don't like a little texture in it, but because it makes for speckles in the polished part and unclean edges around the cuts that have to then be cleaned out again.

Does anybody know how to get cerium oxide out of the obscured parts? I finally got most of it but not without a lot of scrubbing. A degreaser added to the hot water seemed to help. Me thinks the cerium must have little claws that it likes to dig in with.
Thanks,
Inga

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If you look real close, you can still see where some of the too coarse AO left pitting around the edges while obscuring. It was sifted pretty fine, but there were still some nuggets in there, and I don't really know how coarse. I also got some of Paasche's Air Eraser compound which I believe to be a #400 AO, but that seemed a little too fine.

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[Kelly Thorson]

Glad to see you putting the venture to the Czech Republic to use Inga.
I wonder if a high pressure washer would work for getting the Cerium Oxide out?

[Roderick Treece]

Aside from the fact that you spelled it wrong I think it turn out great !If this is the first then I will be excited to see what lies in store for us in the future.

Thanks!

[Ingrid Mager]

What did I spell wrong?
Or...is that a signmaker's joke??
Roderick, were you the one that was going to get that Spatzier posted at http://www.azglassclasses.com but then decided against it?Pricey.....
~inga

[DAVE SMITH]

Ingid.
You have done an excellent job. Glad to see you found the wheels in the end,did you get them from Denver?
Keep going with this. Use a tooth brush to clean out any cerium in awkward areas. Good Job!

Dave

[Ingrid Mager]

Dave,
Denver Glass machinery has gone over to all diamond wheels, save a few very small 1/4" thick corundum wheels. I got some aluminum oxide (and felt) hand me downs from a beveler who didn't want them, and I am not sure just what the specs are on those, except they seem to be #220-#320 and hard enough to hold an edge.
No doubt I will have to have a few wheels made for me down the road.....probably a few medium/big ones around 1" x 16" or so, as that is about the limit that I think my machine should handle with ease. I know approximately what hadness and grit I should specify, but any recommendations for exact specs in your opinion?

I have hand made lots of polishing wheels, but have to say, am not having the greatest results with the MDF wheels. One of the problems I am having is that if I try and polish a cut made with a strap wheel, the edge of the wheel gets chewed up very fast. The wood (poplar) wheels I made warp if allowed to dry...and if kept wet, I am not sure how to keep it dressed. (How do you do it?)

Smoothing is where I am having more challenges than polishing, though. I am seeing that a pumice paddle may have to be in the works.
SIGH....... Still so much to learn.......nose to the grindstone...... (Now I KNOW where that expression came from, LOL)

~Inga