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Aluminum Leaf Questions.

Hand Lettering topics: Sign Making, Design, Fabrication, Letterheads, Sign Books.

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Doug Fielder
Posts: 143
Joined: Thu Jul 22, 2004 7:08 pm
Location: Port St Lucie, FL
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Aluminum Leaf Questions.

Post by Doug Fielder »

Hey there, I know this is the best place to ask anything that has to do with leaf, so here I go.

I am gettting ready to do a sign with silver metal leaf letters on the top and Goldleaf letters on another part of the sign.
My questions are...
Should I use aluminum leaf?
Should I clear it?
What size should I use? Is it a waste to use LaFranc?
Is there a good way to test the tack for these inferior leafs?
Is there an alternative I can consider? Not paladium leaf.

I have always read that you are not supposed to clear Goldleaf unless it will be touched, is this still the popular census?

I was just told by Large, the pinstriper, on another site that you always clear your leaf no matter what type. I know this is true for vehicles and eye/hand level signs that are at risk of touchy feely people.

FYI- The sign will be on a mountain top building facing south, sandblasted HDU, primed and painted with 1-Shot products containing hardner with a glass smalted background.

Thank you in advance!
Doug F.
FALLOUT Grafix
Port St Lucie, FL

Formerly from NJ, Formerly from VT,
Formerly from SF, CA, Formerly from NC,
Formerly from CO, FINALLY settled in FL!
Jon Harl
Posts: 24
Joined: Thu Apr 08, 2004 4:55 am
Location: San Jose, California

Post by Jon Harl »

I was going to suggest paladium leaf. That's what Rick Glawson steered me to for my shop sign when I wanted silver letters.
Darryl Gomes
Posts: 14
Joined: Thu Apr 08, 2004 7:04 pm
Location: Underwood, Ontario Canada

Post by Darryl Gomes »

I would use Aluminum leaf. It won't tarnish like silver will and is not near as expensive as palladium.

I would not clear it either. The clear will fail way before the leaf will. Don't clear the gold either. I have always heard "don't clear the leaf unless it will be touched or on a vehicle" as well.

LeFranc slow size will probably give you the brightest gild with the gold, but I don't think it will make much difference with the aluminum. I always wait till the size is really dry for gold, but for the thicker leaves, like aluminum, veriegated, copper,etc, gild when the size is tackier. Not sticky though. It's hard to explian, but when the size is at the "I could gild it, but I should really wait some more stage" that is perfect for the thicker metals.

Post a pic when you are done.. It sounds like a beautiful sign.
Darryl Gomes
Underwood Ontario
joe cieslowski
Posts: 338
Joined: Sun Apr 11, 2004 6:15 pm
Location: east canaan ct
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Post by joe cieslowski »

Doug,

I understand the problem with describing how to test the tack for gilding. What I have started to do is to take a food can lid and paint a portion of it with the same top coats that I am using on my sign. I apply the size on the lid at the same time I apply it to the letters.

To test the tack, I use a pointed knuckle and touch the size on the can lid. If the lid lifts easily......wait!!! I gild when I am just able to get the lid to lift before falling back to the table. Gravity takes some of the "Art" out of the process.

I've demonstrated this at a few meets and folks seem to like it.

Hope this helps!

Joe,
Makin Chip$ and Havin Fun!
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