Hi All! This is my first post, and it's great to read all of yours.
I'm doing a satin finish gild on the front of a glass door, as the glass is opaque.
I'm debating whether to use one shot paint itself as the size or one shot quick drying size. The issue with the quick drying size is that it may not adhere as well to the glass.
Does anyone have any experience either with the durability of 1shot quick drying size on front of glass or with using 1shot lettering enamel itself as a size? Or maybe you have a better solution altogether??
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This is an interactive Bulletin Board on the topics of Sign making, design, fabrication, History, old Books and of coarse Letterheads, Keepers of the craft. The Hand Lettering Forum features links to resources, sign art history, techniques, and artists profiles. Learn more about Letterheads at https://theletterheads.com. Below you'll see Mchat has been added as a live communication portal for trial, and the Main forum Links are listed below.
1st surface glass gild
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Re: 1st surface glass gild
Welcome Lesley, glad you enjoyed the other posts.
Opaque Glass Surface gilding has many challenges such as exposure and additional heat. These jobs tend to have a short life especially facing West or South.
Oil based Gold Size is what you should use. I would prefer slow size in an Oil-Varnish based Gold Size because it expands and contracts (shrinks and grows) at a similar rate of Glass.
I suggest that you buy a couple types of Gold Size, apply them to a glass window, then gild the test areas, then clearcoat each sample, then see which one is the strongest by trying to rub off with bare fingers then apply tap over the top well and rip the tape off to see how well the adhesion is.
I prefer Spar Varnish. Clearcoat should also be similar to your gold size choice because it is setting over the top of the gold size that expands and contracts at a similar rate, like the glass.
A clear coat that is harder than the gold size can check or peal up and fall off with some of the gold like a scab, if you do not apply at least 2-3 coats. The strongest clear coatings are applied to Vehicles and Boats. By testing you'll find out if your size has cured enough so that your clear doesn't melt it through the gold, causing an Alligator effect or melt through. How chemically strong is your gild with you clear coat choice?
All reasons for some home or shop testing, and another thing, never use just paint for gold size or even ad a drip to it to your size, it's just trouble called a redo or lawsuit. Dust surfaces lightly with Shadow Kaolin and blow off excess powder, this won't contaminate the gold size, you'll see where the size is applied, and it will keep the gold from sticking anywhere else.
Just a drip of paint will leave dryer specs everywhere and dulls a gild, bad trick. There are proper inert pigments for that purpose. Many newer paints are not compatible.
Sorry to rush through it, there can be many variables, but I hope this expands your thinking and helps you, you'll always welcome to call me or search some of the subjects here at the Hand Lettering Forum.
Opaque Glass Surface gilding has many challenges such as exposure and additional heat. These jobs tend to have a short life especially facing West or South.
Oil based Gold Size is what you should use. I would prefer slow size in an Oil-Varnish based Gold Size because it expands and contracts (shrinks and grows) at a similar rate of Glass.
I suggest that you buy a couple types of Gold Size, apply them to a glass window, then gild the test areas, then clearcoat each sample, then see which one is the strongest by trying to rub off with bare fingers then apply tap over the top well and rip the tape off to see how well the adhesion is.
I prefer Spar Varnish. Clearcoat should also be similar to your gold size choice because it is setting over the top of the gold size that expands and contracts at a similar rate, like the glass.
A clear coat that is harder than the gold size can check or peal up and fall off with some of the gold like a scab, if you do not apply at least 2-3 coats. The strongest clear coatings are applied to Vehicles and Boats. By testing you'll find out if your size has cured enough so that your clear doesn't melt it through the gold, causing an Alligator effect or melt through. How chemically strong is your gild with you clear coat choice?
All reasons for some home or shop testing, and another thing, never use just paint for gold size or even ad a drip to it to your size, it's just trouble called a redo or lawsuit. Dust surfaces lightly with Shadow Kaolin and blow off excess powder, this won't contaminate the gold size, you'll see where the size is applied, and it will keep the gold from sticking anywhere else.
Just a drip of paint will leave dryer specs everywhere and dulls a gild, bad trick. There are proper inert pigments for that purpose. Many newer paints are not compatible.
Sorry to rush through it, there can be many variables, but I hope this expands your thinking and helps you, you'll always welcome to call me or search some of the subjects here at the Hand Lettering Forum.
Re: 1st surface glass gild
Apologies, Ron, just seeing this now after a few months! (I've got to figure out how to get notifications!) Thank you for your insight and thorough reply!
I ended up using the one shot quick drying size, applying the gold, and leaving it bare and instructing them to only use a microfiber lightly around the gild when cleaning. It was for directional signage in a dimly lit hallway. I was just back at the sight today and see that it's held up completely. I did a sample at home, and I'd be hard pressed (ha ha) to be able to rub it off the glass. Really strong and adhesive to glass. And thank you for your offer to reach out to you! Not sure how to call, I'm forum illiterate!
![Smile :)](./images/smilies/icon_smile.gif)
I ended up using the one shot quick drying size, applying the gold, and leaving it bare and instructing them to only use a microfiber lightly around the gild when cleaning. It was for directional signage in a dimly lit hallway. I was just back at the sight today and see that it's held up completely. I did a sample at home, and I'd be hard pressed (ha ha) to be able to rub it off the glass. Really strong and adhesive to glass. And thank you for your offer to reach out to you! Not sure how to call, I'm forum illiterate!