Posted by HARRY ORESKO on November 21, 2003
RoderickHOW DO YOU AFIX A PHOTOGRAPH OR PHOTO COPY TO THE BACK OF GLASS? LIKE JOHN STUDDEN'S CIGAR ART WITH THE LADY IN THE CORNER. IS IT GLUED, OR SHALLACKED? WHAT KIND OF PAPER OR MATERIAL? I'VE SEEN MANY OF THEM, BUT NEVER KNEW HOW TO DO THE PROCESS.IN SIGN CRAFT MR. COLLEY PAINTED A PICTURE ON CLEAR VINYL OR SOMETHING. I'M GOING TO FIND THE ARTICLE AND READ IT. IS THERE A BETTER WAY?.....HARRY-O!!!
Mike JacksonI have to ways that I've done it.Both work great but one is much faster then the other.I like the epoxy.
1)Damar varnish
Very slow drying and it tends to run out from under the artwork over time.
2)Marine epoxy "G2"
It's got good uv properties ,sets over night and depending on how you mix it flexable or regid.You can also use quicker drying epoxyies 5,10,30 minute but they are a little more yellow.
Good luck
Roderick
Hi Harry,
First, let me encourage you to use upper and lower case. It is much easier for us to read.
I looked through some notes I took while at the conclaves, but didn't see that one. Glawson's formula was something like 1/3 Resn-Gel, 1/3 Spar Varnish, and seems like Turps were in there, but seems that would make it too thin. We did some class Christmas cards for a few years and tried glueing in some actual old time Santa Claus images direct from actual Christmas cards. We tried that formula without a lot of success. The Resn-Gel took much too long to set up and the thicker Christmas cards kept wanting to curl up once they go wet. I personally think you could just use WW Window spar which would flow out fine and dry fast enough, coating both areas before application. You also have to watch out for trapped bubbles.
Some of the projects Rick did were with Color Photocopies. I think they would work much better than our cards because the paper would stay flat, absorb the varnish through and through, allow the varnish to dry and would probably allow for some fo the bubbles to release.
I know I heard talk of people using Frog Juice, but you need to create a Shellac barrier between the juice and the enamel paints.
This is one case where a lot of experimentation is in order before you commit the process to your final project.
Good luck,
Mike Jackson
Bob Ficucell
Danny BaronianMike,
When I was at Ricks, some of the 'Pictures" that were on glass signs , really didn't look like photos, I'm thinking of the beer signs.
They were more like litographs or a type of decal.
Is that possible? are they still being sold if they are some type of decal? Bob
John StuddenAnother method is to spray both sides of the print with clear lacquer and apply clear photo mount film over the print.
Cut your print, position it behind the glass, hinge it in position with tape, remove the liner and carefully squeegee down. No bubbles, no set up time.
Individual sheets are usually carried by sign suppliers. Also check with a laminator or digital printer.
Danny
The cigar art piece of art was a laser print enlargement from an original cigar label (no dot structure), applied with a 50/50 mixture of ww window spar varnish & Elmers Mucilage glue applied to both surfaces and pressed out using fingers only so no excess glue remained. The glass was then allowed to dry in a horizontal position. Next day the picture seems to look washed out, this is remedied by painting the back with 1-shot white enamel which restores the color, I hope this helps.........
Roderick
Harry OShoudn't the Studden process include a pint of some kind of ale?
Roderick
D. BernhardtThank you all for answering. The other method Imentioned was in July/ Aug. 2002 of SIGNCRAFT,
Terry Colley paints latex on plastic then using ONE SHOT Enamel brushes on and airbrushes a graphic, once dry applies tinting clear on the glass then adhears the painted picture. When dry in a few days pulls off thepolyethylene plastic.
Thanks.... HARRY O
Have read with interest all the various replies and recipies. I still use the old stand by with a small adjustment and have used it many times without problems for "canvas" illustrations to glass. 1/3damar 1/3bulletin spar 1/3resin gel, Mix thoroughly and apply to both surfaces. Attach illustration from below (am looking down from saw horses) and squeeze out all excess varnishes. They leave a bead arround the edge (which is quite desirable) using a Vinyl application squeege and flip over.Setting up takes a day or so and should be watched over occassionaly for any stray air bubbles. Rick Glawson never bothered to flip it over but I've found this necessary. Wether it was atmospheric or just plain levels expertise I'll never know for sure. His examples were outstanding. However as mentioned, never had a problem with canvas although Studdens idea of coating at the end sounds particularly promising!
Denver Chapter of the Letterheads