Need help quick....(glass signs)

Doug Fielder · Post by **Doug Fielder** » Tue Mar 22, 2005 2:44 pm

G'day,

I need to do an airbrush fade (Aqua to Transparent) on glass either tomorrow or next week and don't have my Chromatic clear up here, any suggestions?
I do have: 1-Shot Super Gloss Tinting Clear
Frog Juice, both Solvent and Water Based
1-Shot UV Acrylic Clear
HOK UC-3 Clear and something else down at the shop, nothing known as a good clear for glass though.

Any help will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks.

Doug.

Post by **Mike Jackson** » Tue Mar 22, 2005 3:37 pm

You can always use gold size...One Shot dies pretty darned fast, but you could add a little Japan Dryers. I probably wouldn't use a 12 hours oil size by any brand. Clear Fibroseal dries REALLY fast.

Mike

Doug Fielder · Post by **Doug Fielder** » Tue Mar 22, 2005 4:03 pm

THANK YOU!!!

I forgot to mention that I also had gold size. I was thinking why not?

THANK YOU AGAIN!

Doug.

Doug Bernhardt · Post by **Doug Bernhardt** » Tue Mar 22, 2005 8:54 pm

Hi Doug and Mike
I also would concider a drop or 3 of hardner in the size although don't have any experience with air brush on glass. There was an article quite recently in sign business where Dave McDonald and John Studden screened a blend from colour to clear on glass...might be worth a peek.

Post by **Mike Jackson** » Tue Mar 22, 2005 9:32 pm

DOUGLAS!!!!!
You have been quiet lately. I had hoped you were mad at us!

It seems people are using hardener much more lately than we ever did. Sounds like a good product with many applications. I am in the process of going through Steven Parrish's old sign kits before I send them to the Museum, and I see several cans of Japan Dryer, but no hardener!

Mike

Jeff Lang · Post by **Jeff Lang** » Tue Mar 22, 2005 10:02 pm

Doug,
I was given the impression at one time that One Shot tinting clear had the same properties as the other One Shot paints, it just didnt have any pigment. I would tend to think that would be a good choice to use it if you were going to use the aqua from One Shot. No drying surprises, or other cross mixing problems that might occur.
Is there any time for a test panel?
Maybe Kent could chime in and confirm this.
Jeff

Doug Bernhardt · Post by **Doug Bernhardt** » Tue Mar 22, 2005 10:16 pm

Hi Mike and Jeff...
Well, was thinking the same thing, that the one shot clear was a good idea...although again I ain't got a heap of experience with it. Have used all the products Goldie has mentioned with good results. The hardener used carefully is very good stuff. At Memorial Conclave this winter Studdley was mixing into the back-up screen ink and I was duely impressed by how much better it stood up to the subsequent treatments...you know cleaning...and solvent things.
Mike...sorry ain't been here as much but find myself swamped at the shop and most of my time at the computer has been taken up with all the new discoveries in photoshop...courtesy of the Mr.Bee. Having said that, I do hestiate to step into things that are "weighty". I'm not good at making what I think "sound right" when I type. I guess I've never learned the on-line voice and it has gotten me in trouble more than once!

Doug Bernhardt · Post by **Doug Bernhardt** » Tue Mar 22, 2005 10:19 pm

...should have added that I also "heard" that the clear is just non-pigmented medium/carrier.

Doug Fielder · Post by **Doug Fielder** » Wed Mar 23, 2005 9:46 am

All Excellent info, THANK YOU all!

I just found a can of Chromatic Sign Finishing Clear, but I don't think that is close to the Clear Overcoat Varnish I have down in NJ.
I am surprised that the hardener doesn't make the paint/clear too brittle to hold onto the glass. I use the 1-Shot hardner pretty regular, but just in backgrounds (gives a nice slick finish that seems to resist gold hitchhikers), lettering and striping. I have also had better luck with a product called DOI (Distinctive of Image or something like that), which is an enamel catalyst (hardner) designed for improved durability and prolonged gloss. It acts as a flow enhancer while striping and resists the ribbon effect from clearing over it.
Has anyone used PELUCID by the people who make POR-15? It seems to be straight Isocyanate with some thinner in it, said to be a ROCK HARD CLEAR that resists chipping and cracking. I have used it 3 years ago to clear a sign, I now want to see how it has held up.

Thanks again.

Billy Pickett · Post by **Billy Pickett** » Wed Mar 23, 2005 12:51 pm

...Doug, If you want a nice transparent color for the fade, use prussion blue and/or pthalo green tube oil paint. I'd advise that you spray it on (natch).

Doug Fielder · Post by **Doug Fielder** » Wed Mar 23, 2005 1:03 pm

Hey thanks for the tip, I was considering doing the fade in transparent, but by mixing the Aqua with Clear. I have never tried tube oil paints, so it would be a whole new thing to learn.

Thanks for the tip though.

Doug.

Need help quick....(glass signs)

Need help quick....(glass signs)

THANK YOU GOD! (I mean Mike)

a quick P.S.

THANK YOU!