Posted by Mike Jackson on March 06, 2004
Hi Letterers,
Most of us probably own Frank Atkinson's book on sign painting--either an original or the ST reprint. The average person probably knows there is a bunch of text in the front section, but I doubt many have read much of it. Okay...I'm partially guilty, but I have read quite a bit of it over the years.
If the topics dry up here, or you are just looking for a new technique or challenge, pick up your book and look for an interesting tip or process. You will be amazed!
Back in the early '80s, we used to demonstrate a technique for Imitation Marble, right out of the book. It's on page 42 of my book.
"Imitation Marble: Excellent for pleasing backgrounds on any sign surface. Prepare a water tank larger than the sign to be marbled. Fill with water, add two ounces of gum tragacanth for every gallon of water, and cover surface of the water with colors mixed with equal part of oil, Copal varnish and turpentine. Colors should be of a thin brushing consistency to enable one to readily pour them upon the water from bottles. Whe surface of water is covered, for the color film into pleasing design in imitation of marble, using a stick for this purpose. When ready carefully lay face of sign upon the water surface and lift immediately. Lay sign flat on trestles to dry. Should dry in thirty hours."
I bought a pound of Gun Tragacanth from Brainerd Chemical Company in Tulsa, OK for the Oklahoma Bash and we had a lot of fun with it. That process was used at quite a few Letterheads meetings following it, but I haven't heard of anyone doing it in a long time. You can work this process on MDO, aluminum and even cardboard.
The best examples seemed to use pastel colors if applying them over a light color background, but dark colors would work fine if the background was dark. You can use the same solution for a long time if you pour it back into a gallon jug as most of the paint eventually sticks to the sides of the tub or sinks to the bottom. There is a little "skill and technique" involved in setting the piece of wood or material onto the marble film since it is possible to trap a bubble if you set it straight down. We used to lay it in at a slight angle.
The stuff sinks a bit and is probably toxic (along with the paint), so wear rubber gloves!
I've heard you can do this process without the gum tragacanth, though I suspect it helps float the paint film better. Try it!.. even if you don't have the chemical.
Maybe I can post a photo of this process someday. Anyone can do this process, so it is a big hit at a Letterheads meeting. In the end, the person who experiments with the colors and shows some self control will find quite a few uses for it.
Mike Jackson
Bruce Jackson
MarcoI don't know how it compares with gum tragacanth, but Carrageen (I think that's how it's spelt) is the gelling agent traditionally used here.
I remember reading about a woman printing silk cloth like this. She had a huge trough, maybe 6 metres long (20') and would uses some kind of algae-based product that would gell. It may have been carrageen moss, but I recall thinking it was something else.
She's lay colors onto it and print a length of cloth with fantastic results.
Joe Crumley - Gum Tragacanth MarbleI saw another trick for creating a unique background at a meet several years ago (I think it was at Mark Baty's).
On a dark blue background we dabbled and flicked hundreds of water beads and dropplets over the surface of a panel, then sprayed Krylon blue at a very low angle, covering one side of the droplets. From the opposite angle we sprayed white Krylon. When the water evaporated, the suface truly looked rain spattered.
Others used different color combinations and they all looked cool. Best of all, it was a no-talent-required project. I still have that panel.
Thank you for the reminder on the enameling, marble affect, we enjoyed and investigated years ago.
My memory was that it take some patience and experimentation but well worth the time and trouble. Lots of paper towels.
Notes: Inks or paint, carefully applied, in strait lines, to the water surface. A comb, consisting of metal tines, nails or screws, very carefully moved across the liquid surface, only once, before the board or paper was rolled out.
Screws were installed on the back of the boards for easy dipping.
I recall one problem of getting a clean image that didn't look like it was done by Jackson Pollack or look too muddy.
The book binding industry, at the turn of the century, used the same techniques on the indside cover of many expensive books. I'm allways stunned when I open one of these. It looks so ... rich.
I'm gratfull for the reminder about such a potentially beautiful and deliclate affect.
Well, there goes Monday. I'll post my findings.
Joe
John Harl- Marble
Mike Jackson - Another Nice Marble TechniqueThis remainds me of a photo in SignCraft of a piece Carl Rohrs did with floating paint. If I remember it had a rose on it, anyways it was awesome. It was probably the same technique. Now I've got to try it out.
John Harl - Great minds think alikeBesides the effect described in Atkinson's book, I saw a very nice imitation Marble technique used by the wonderfully talented Carl Rohrs. We've used it successfully on numerous occasions. This one requires you to be able to get your substrate flat, so it might not work in vertical situations.
Basically, you roller coat a thick layer of backgroud paint, then drip or flick other colors on top of it in somewhat of a random, but controlled manner. Again, it works best if you keep the colors slightly muted and not too contrasty. Then fill a small spray bottle with gum turnentine and mist on a thin film over the entire area. You will quickly judge how much turps you will need for the colors to start melding and blenging together. You can rock the piece around a little to create special effects and temporary runs. When you are generally happy with what you see, leave the panel flat and let it dry. Turpentine evaporates surprisingly fast from the paint and you can work on it either the next day or soon afterwards. Carl did a nice piece in one weekend, complete with borders and a painted alphabet. I have that piece in the storage unit and will try to get a shot of it soon.
Okay, if you get the concept, you can also mask off areas on a sign panel and do this marble technique in selected areas, including letters. I'd suggest using Gerber Mask or some sort of intermediate vinyl for the mask. With all the thinner, trans-mask or transfer paper might get a little soaked an gummy.
Gum turpentine eventually clogs up a spray bottle unless you pour it back into the can and clean the sprayer out with thinner. Knowing you can buy a spray bottle for around $1, it might just be a throw away item similar to a foal roller cover. We usually tried to get a few uses out of one before it gummed up.
Mike
I posted my other followup before I read this additonal marble technique. This brings the SignCraft tip back to memory. Exactly what I was thinking about. Mike- you're the man.
Denver Chapter of the Letterheads