Doug Bernhardt mentioned his 1/3, /1/3, 1/3 mixture in a post earlier for adhering a photo, painting, card or similar paper image to the back of a piece of glass.
Here's Doug's (I think it came from Rick Glawson originally)
1/3 damar varnish 1/3 resin gel 1/3 bulletin spar or quick rubbing varnish
Personally, I had some problems using that formula. We were making glass Christmas Cards and I purchased a few real Christmas cards so I could include an old time Santa image. I have a feeling the thickness of the card caused my problems. Besides the possibility of not being perfectly flat, they did not fully absorb the mixture and I got trapped air bubbles by the next day. A few people have suggested making color photocopies of the original piece and using them instead. Other than the issue of color fastness, I can see the benefit knowing the piece of paper will absorb the mix and will have less tendency to want to curl or buckle.
A few people doing framed glass signs don't actually adhere the image to the glass, but instead glue it to a piece of masonite or matte board in the correct location. This works best if there is only a "window" of an area in the glass such as a open oval, square, or freeform shape. The backing board is then mounted into the frame so the image shows through the clear glass properly.
If you have a favorite recipe or method, please post it here.
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This is an interactive Bulletin Board on the topics of Sign making, design, fabrication, History, old Books and of coarse Letterheads, Keepers of the craft. The Hand Lettering Forum features links to resources, sign art history, techniques, and artists profiles. Learn more about Letterheads at https://theletterheads.com. Below you'll see Mchat has been added as a live communication portal for trial, and the Main forum Links are listed below.
Signmaking 101: Adhering Photos to glass
Moderators: Ron Percell, Mike Jackson, Danny Baronian
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Signmaking 101: Adhering Photos to glass
Mike Jackson / co-administrator
Golden Era Studios
Vintage Ornamental Clip art
Jackson Hole, WY
Photography site:
Teton Images
Jackson Hole photography blog:
Best of the Tetons
Golden Era Studios
Vintage Ornamental Clip art
Jackson Hole, WY
Photography site:
Teton Images
Jackson Hole photography blog:
Best of the Tetons
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Awhile ago I did a few tests.
1) Ricks formula
2)Ricks formula plus lots of japan dryier and fiberseal
3)two part epoxy 30 minute
My favorite so far was the epoxy.Dries fast and when it kicks it's done.Rick's formula , useing historic materials would by it's very nature be slow setting and if you have the time to let it dry that's graet .Also it's more in line from a historic sense.
Roderick
1) Ricks formula
2)Ricks formula plus lots of japan dryier and fiberseal
3)two part epoxy 30 minute
My favorite so far was the epoxy.Dries fast and when it kicks it's done.Rick's formula , useing historic materials would by it's very nature be slow setting and if you have the time to let it dry that's graet .Also it's more in line from a historic sense.
Roderick
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The Weber's Res-N-Gel is the culprit. By design, it dries very slow. Personally, I think there is something better...but you also have to be careful knowing whatever mixture you use "could" attack the paint under it.
Mike
Mike
Mike Jackson / co-administrator
Golden Era Studios
Vintage Ornamental Clip art
Jackson Hole, WY
Photography site:
Teton Images
Jackson Hole photography blog:
Best of the Tetons
Golden Era Studios
Vintage Ornamental Clip art
Jackson Hole, WY
Photography site:
Teton Images
Jackson Hole photography blog:
Best of the Tetons
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Additional technique...
I have also taken the picture and had it laminated in clear plastic much like a menu, then adhered it to the glass with the varnish mix. I would coat both the laminated picture and the glass with the varnish, then viewing the glass from the front, position the picture in place and work out any bubble from the center outward. Immediately after working the bubbles out, I would place the glass on a block of wood that I cut to same size and shape of the pictorial. Sometimes I would weight the glass. This seemed to help from any bubbles "sucking" back under the picture. I would then allow it to dry for a few days. I still prefer to just place the pictorial behind the glass whenever possible, it really makes life easier that way.
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Gosh...this mixture worked great for me right from the beginning and yes, it was Rick's mixture...the bulletin spar was his adjustment. I have used it quite a few times for adhering canvas and did pretty much the same as Larry has mentioned. Rick used to apply it upside down and that NEVER worked for me....air bubbles, so I did it illustration facing the floor. Also kept a vinyl squeege handy and periodically sqeezed a bead of the mixture to the edge. After an hour or so everything was pretty much settled....although as a side bar, the bright lines back-up and any other decoration needs to be real dry!
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