Posted by Mike Jackson on April 02, 2003
Hi gang,
I have been working on a few more items that Rick sold. Some were available at hardware stores, grocery stores and so forth, but Rick bought supplies to make it easy for the average sign person to stay in the shop and work...just place the single order over the phone.
For example:
Simple Green: Hardware stores, grocery stores
Bon-Ami cakes: Many grocery stores, some hardware stores.
Glue-Off: (different brands or citrus based adhesive removers)Goo-Gone for example is available at almost any paint and hardware store, many grocery stores.
CRL Glass Cleaner: Some grocery stores, some hardware stores, some paint stores
Splash Concentrate: most sign supply shops
Brush Oil: Some sign supply stores
Frog Juice: Direct from Superfrog, and many sign supply stores
Razor Blades: Most sign supply shops, most hardware or paint stores
Velvet: Most fabric stores
Electro Pounce Machines: Most sign supply stores
Glass Drills: Most Stained Glass Suppliers
I spent some time during the past week trying to track down the PacerTech HC150 cyanacrylate adhesive Rick sold. I contacted PacerTech.com who sent me to their industrial division. That specific item has been discontinued, so the lady on the front line had me talk to their industrial specialist. As it turned out, as I explained how and why we used that product, he suggested it might not be the best product after all. He was worried about UV deteriation, and was a little concerned about it attacking the paint between the abalone and the glass.
He is going to send me some new information by email tomorrow, with suggestions of better products. One was a two part UV cure glue that would set up in roughly 15 seconds using a UV light or even the daylight. He did suggest people putting down a barrier layer of shellac between the painted areas and the cyanoacrylate glue if people were still going to use it.
I took a few notes while at Rick's over the years and one was: "For applying abalone to glass, a safe method is to use damar and quick rubbing varnish when you can lay the piece flat."
I will try to add some of these to a special section of the chart very soon.
Mike Jackson
D. Bernhardt
Doug again - Frog Juice AdhesiveFrom what i gather Rick had seen the problems with cyano and for jewels and pearl etc had switched to frog juice...used it quite a number of times here also with great results...would never go back to that or the varnish mix....I,ll try and post a pic here of glass sign with pearl and jewels that is over a year old
Ron PercellGosh...all the praise and from such high places makes me blush. Thanx a heap folks...BUT the idea was that all the pearl and jewels including the big diachroic one in the centre was done with frog juice. The varnish yellows as does gold size and takes ages to cure. Frog juice is ready in a flash and holds better than cyanno. For tinsel which is sadley no longer available it wont tarnish. Rick as mentioned had switched to this after experiments in the afore-mentioned as well as shellacs. As for tinsel the last batch or better...few onces i got from Rick he had also written on the jar...Thats all there is!
Billy BobRick was working the replacement with Sepp Leaf
For something other than the pricey, exotic and rare "brush oil" use regular ole automatic transmission fluid (oil). It's available at most auto parts stores and many supermarkets.
Kent Smith
D. Bernhardt - I Second ThatI will go on record again suggesting that the additives in ATF can attack the bonding agent in some flats and the plastic quills that are being used today. This can cause a slow but gradual hair loss. The drier in the ATF which is supposed to keep water condensation from attacking the metal parts will also dry out the natural oils from the hairs of the brushes, causing a more permanent damage as they get brittle. I prefer a more natural oil and one which can be fully cleaned out of the brush so that it will not contaminate the paints.
Robert Beverly - Using Baby Oil instead of Neatsfoot OilRick was using or at least selling baby oil in the store...for years i used Neadsfoot oil (for leather) and seemed fine too
After having purchased a couple of gallons of neats foot(suggested by a fellow Letterhead when first starting), I inquired to Rick about it's use for brushes and he responded...
NO...the neats foot is an animal base product that has to be thoroughly cleaned from the brush before use...
whereas...He suggested a trip to the local dollar store for baby oil because it was a weaker dilution of an oil that would dissolve easily in a turp based paint and would not disrupt the flow or setup if a little is left in the brush.
Hope this helps
Robert
Earle Von Lyons
D. Bernhardt - you betIs the general consensus Baby Oil over Neats Foot Oil? I have read a few negative comments regarding Neats.
What about Neats (Sulfonated) - "This product is not to be confused with common neats foot oil. Because it is sulfonated, it will blend with water-based agents. It is a very fast-acting Neats Foot Oil." (http://www.vandykestaxidermy.com/product/01351663/)
Just looking for the best solution for brush storage.
Thanks.
-earle.
Mike Jackson - Chart LinkHi Robert...i agree. The trouble with neatsfoot and was wondering even about mentioning it in the post is that it is a non-drying oil. Linseed is a drying version so it used in oil painting but neatsfoot....probably never dries. More from others as to the baby oil would be appreciated!
For the people visiting this BB, reading from the top down, we have been creating a page consisting of a chart identifying the hard to find procucts Rick Glawson sold at Esoteric Sign Supply.
It is easy to add to the list, so if you know of other supplies that should be on the list, please let me know.
From a recent email, I have been informed the family was able to open the safe at Rick's shop, but unfortunately, there was no will inside. With the lack of a will, the whole thing goes to probate and could be a long time before anyone knows the fate of Esoteric Sign Supplies.
Mike Jackson
Sign Products Supply Page
http://www.theletterheads.com/supplies/index.htm
Denver Chapter of the Letterheads