gold Leaf on the outside of glass

Rob Collard · Post by **Rob Collard** » Sun Aug 14, 2005 11:16 pm

Maybe I missed something, but I did a test on the outside of a customers window using oneshot quick size and varigated goldleaf. I wasn't sure how good it would hold up so I made a flame like design with 3 tips applied the leaf and let it dry. I rubbed it several times and it felt pretty durable. A couple days later I brushed dupont clear and then striped the edges with one shot. The customer loved it and I sold my first window job!!! I have since bought Gold Leaf Techniques book and doing alot more research. So now its time to do the job and I'm sooo far up in my head afraid doing it on the outside of the glass will fail and I'm afraid the inside won't have the same look.
Help me stop the chatter in my head---Please----COLLARD

Doug Fielder · Post by **Doug Fielder** » Mon Aug 15, 2005 7:47 am

Hi there,

I am in no way an authority on this, but I imagine you can do it like they do lots of office doors, paint your lettering on in black then when that is dry, size and gild, clear and outline to seal the edges. This is how I IMAGINE it is done. Probably do the initial lettering (black) in Japan, clear with WW Window Spar and outline in any enamel color.
Again, I am no authority, and when I gilded my truck windows I just sized them (1-Shot 1 rh stuff), gilded them and cleared with House of Kolor UC-3 clear and outlined in 1-Shot. They held up through the rough winter and 80+ mph drives. The phone number which I didn't outline suffered blowing off in chunks. The only reason they aren't still gilded is that I changed the name of my business.

Post by **Mike Jackson** » Mon Aug 15, 2005 9:33 am

Collard,
It is nice to hear you made a test piece first, before doing your first piece as a real job!

Unless the glass it tinted dark, I'd suggest doing it in reverse on the inside. Justoutline your graphics in black or whatever color, let it dry, apply the clear size, apply the leaf, and regild the verigated area again. Then back up with black or a nice neutral color, and come back with a clear once everything is dry.

Mike Jackson

Doug Fielder · Post by **Doug Fielder** » Mon Aug 15, 2005 11:40 am

What Mike said.

I was referring to old office doors with the frosted look, and my truck has the dark tinted back windows. I am not sure of your situation, so I just offered you info on what you asked.
Good luck!

Rob Collard · Post by **Rob Collard** » Mon Aug 15, 2005 2:18 pm

Thanks for your replys. I'm not sure why to outline first? I'm using a mask for the letters- size, guild, then outline? Oh , the customer wants a purple I made with oneshot, can i backup the entire letter w/ this or would you recommend something different? Do I still clear my work inside? Before backup or after? Sorry lot of questions---COLLARD

Post by **Mike Jackson** » Mon Aug 15, 2005 2:35 pm

Well, it is much easier to letter with lettering enamel than quick size, not to mention the fact the size is basically clear. If you outline first, you have quite a bit of area to be "sloppy" with the size...maybe half the width of the outline. That's why most people outline first, whether outlining with a brush or with stencil. With computer mask, it is possible to peel the centers first, gild, peel the outline and back up and outline all at the same time, but you'll often get raggedy edges especially with the thicker leaves like varigated leaf. All of these factors are part of doing your test pieces prior to committing the process to a customer's job.

Mike

Rob Collard · Post by **Rob Collard** » Mon Aug 15, 2005 4:09 pm

Wow, the more I hear the more I'm clear--I don't know what I'm doing over here!!! Thanks for your insight and help Mike!---Collard

Billy Pickett · Post by **Billy Pickett** » Tue Aug 16, 2005 12:12 pm

...Properly done, GL on (interior) glass will last for many decades. This is usually NEVER done on the exterior, except (as mentioned already) for tinted windows. It the client needs a "burnish" gold job, don't give them "surface" work.

Varigated leaf is NOT gold leaf, and it will not hold up to exterior "elements" (like sunlight and finger scratches). Using a clear to "protect" it will only break down prematurely too. It seems like you are heading into headache territory. ...This could be a job for (brand name?) , the stick on gold leaf that you cut in a plotter....If it HAS to be on the outside.

Don't sell any client a gold leaf window job unless you really know what you are using and doing. This is a TOP QUALITY sign product, and you should not "sell out" (yourself or) the client by compromising. You have a reputation to build here.

Since you have the Lablanc book, start studying it and making sample, experimental pieces for your shop before going out in the field and winging it. And DON"T do your practice pieces on the clients window!!! Good luck with all of this.