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This is an interactive Bulletin Board on the topics of Sign making, design, fabrication, History, old Books and of coarse Letterheads, Keepers of the craft. The Hand Lettering Forum features links to resources, sign art history, techniques, and artists profiles. Learn more about Letterheads at https://theletterheads.com. Below you'll see Mchat has been added as a live communication portal for trial, and the Main forum Links are listed below.
This is an interactive Bulletin Board on the topics of Sign making, design, fabrication, History, old Books and of coarse Letterheads, Keepers of the craft. The Hand Lettering Forum features links to resources, sign art history, techniques, and artists profiles. Learn more about Letterheads at https://theletterheads.com. Below you'll see Mchat has been added as a live communication portal for trial, and the Main forum Links are listed below.
Protecting painted signs from weathering
Moderators: Ron Percell, Mike Jackson, Danny Baronian
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- Posts: 1
- Joined: Tue May 30, 2006 10:30 am
Protecting painted signs from weathering
Any suggestions for protecting the top edge of painted signs from the sun? What paint are you using to prevent flaking, etc.?
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- Posts: 502
- Joined: Tue Apr 20, 2004 11:53 pm
- Location: Penzance, SK Canada
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Hi Sue
I'm not sure what kind of signs you are talking about, but if it is MDO, I like to coat the edges with something like either West Systems Epoxy or Titebond glue before painting. This seals the layers so the moisture can't get in and seems to prevent the peeling and flaking. I've often though about trying PB Resin to dome the top edge on high end signs, as that would make it shed the water. Although they get a lot more sunlight along the top edge I suspect the peeling has more to do with water sitting along the top and working it's way under the paint. When I do HDU and cedar signs I try to dome the top slightly and knock off the edges and that seems to help promote the water shed. Rounding the edges also seems to prevent chipping and peeling, but if you are going to seal with something like epoxy or resin I'd do it afterwards so you don't loose the crisp edge that creates surface tension.
There are a number of UV clears available, but I tend to steer away from them after experiencing some bad yellowing on a couple of the industry standards.
If you have a good quality paint and no water can sit you shouldn't have too much trouble with flaking.
I'm not sure what kind of signs you are talking about, but if it is MDO, I like to coat the edges with something like either West Systems Epoxy or Titebond glue before painting. This seals the layers so the moisture can't get in and seems to prevent the peeling and flaking. I've often though about trying PB Resin to dome the top edge on high end signs, as that would make it shed the water. Although they get a lot more sunlight along the top edge I suspect the peeling has more to do with water sitting along the top and working it's way under the paint. When I do HDU and cedar signs I try to dome the top slightly and knock off the edges and that seems to help promote the water shed. Rounding the edges also seems to prevent chipping and peeling, but if you are going to seal with something like epoxy or resin I'd do it afterwards so you don't loose the crisp edge that creates surface tension.
There are a number of UV clears available, but I tend to steer away from them after experiencing some bad yellowing on a couple of the industry standards.
If you have a good quality paint and no water can sit you shouldn't have too much trouble with flaking.
I believe there is no shame in failure. Rather, the shame lies in the loss of all the things that might have been, but for the fear of failure.
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- Joined: Fri Apr 09, 2004 9:29 am
- Location: Ottawa Canada
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Great advice above and would only add that I tend more and more to put aluminum flashing (like roofers) across the top of anything that sits unprotected on a wall. It is way too easy for mouldings to delaminate etc. I also epoxy seal edges and that does go far but paint layers over that will still peel. I have had good luck however with clearstar acrylic overcoat and it also goes on everything leaving the shop. It just fits with the way I work, all paint etc.