REVERSE GLASS PAINTING

Bobbie Rochow · Post by **Bobbie Rochow** » Wed Jan 17, 2007 9:57 pm

I have attempted my first try at reverse painting on glass. So far. so good, but I am wondering if you guys have a certain way you do it as a rule, blending the colors. For instance on a ribbon, would you lay the highlights & shadows down first, then the medium color to blend all, leaving the highlights & shadows on the glass, closer for viewing?

I just cannot leave the stuff alone!

Post by **Mike Jackson** » Wed Jan 17, 2007 11:04 pm

Hi Bobbie,
I will let other people try to explain the process, but I bumped Larry White's Hamilton Bank Note project post up to the top. For all the newcomers to the site (newbies or vetrans), Larry took the time to photograph all the major steps for us here on the Hand Lettering Forum. We all got to watch as he added new elements to his post.

In that project, Larry left his masks on as long as possible and it aided the processes when he did his blends.

Bobbie, just a comment. IF you plan your project well, you might save the blending until the very last step...after your background has been painted in around the open ribbon areas. If done last, you can be "sloppy" when you do the blending strokes, overlapping onto the background areas.

Mike Jackson

Kelly Thorson · Post by **Kelly Thorson** » Wed Jan 17, 2007 11:48 pm

Now see here girl....I told you that you were going to get an addiction.

Hopefully others will help you with this, I'm probably not the best one to answer, but seeing as how you asked me to....
I do one of five things:
1. Airbrush transparent highlights and shadows and then airbrush an opaque base colour behind that
2. Block in the shadows and highlights and add the body colour while they are still wet and blend using either smiths cream or liquin. I use those soft makeup wedges, soft brushes, rags and my fingers
3. paint in my highlights and shadows using fine lines, allow to dry completely and paint in the main colour
4. paint in shadows only using an asphaltum glaze, allow to dry completely and add my base colour using long quick strokes...if you overwork it at all you will disturb the asphaltum glaze
5. as above only spraying the background colour in.

There are probably another 20 answers to this. Experiment on scrap glass before trying it on your piece to see what works best for you. For "important" pieces I usually use the airbrush. I like the look of brushstrokes and character in a piece, the uneducated public likes perfection.

Bobbie Rochow · Post by **Bobbie Rochow** » Thu Jan 18, 2007 11:41 am

Thank you both so much! Mike, I certainly will go over that post of Larry's.

Kelly, you gave me many options, great! What do you use for your mask to airbrush? I do have abit of frisket & also some vinyl mask by Avery.

I cannot tell you all how I feel, doing this. I keep thinking, "This is ME doing this!"

Larry White · Post by **Larry White** » Thu Jan 18, 2007 3:55 pm

Hi Bobbie-

I typically do the blends in one of two ways; a "quickish" production style method is to airbrush in the darker shade areas with black fibroseal (mixed with clear Fibroseal) this actually creates a transparent black. Since the airbrush can create a beautifully feathered edge, I like to shellac over the airbrushing to create a barrier, then just block in the base color over the whole thing. Like Mike says, if you leave it to last, you can block itin without being too careful.

Airbrushed black glaze (then shellaced)

Color blocked in

Shaded panel from the front

This technique can also be done on letter shades with a brush.

Another way is to mix up the desired colors for the blend, extend the open time of the paint, lay in the colors next to each other, then blend them with a brush, cloth, tool, or finger tip. Check out this post on the subject:Blended Letter Shades or Blended backgrounds

I trust that helps!

Post by **Mike Jackson** » Thu Jan 18, 2007 4:05 pm

Hi Larry,
The photo of the Labelle panel is exactly what I was talking about. If you can plan the project out well enough, doing the blended panel actually becomes a no-brainer. About the only thing you have to watch for is to make sure your blending paints don't soften or dissolve the underlying lettering, causing streaks in the banner.

As always, I suggest newbies try the steps on a test project. In this case, I'd cut in a background in black or some opaque color, leaving an area of clear glass, then practice the blending when the background is thoroughly dry.

Mike

Larry White · Post by **Larry White** » Thu Jan 18, 2007 5:24 pm

That's where shellac comes in. If I'm going to do any type of blending work over an inscription, I'll seal it with shellac. The silver on this sign was backed with asphaltum varnish, which is readily reconstituted by any solvent paint, therefore, the whole panel was sealed with shellac prior to any work over the asphaltum.

As these signs are created with many overlapping areas, when ever you can alternate between solvent and non-solvent paints, there's no danger in reconstituting the underlying application. When in doubt, give it a coat of shellac. I've finished glue chipping with mica or bronze powder for an interesting effect. Since I wanted to back up the mica powder with enamel paint, I applied the powder over wonda size (a water based size). The backing paint won't effect the size or subsequent mica powder application. This is especially good when doing a blended mica application.

Bobbie Rochow · Post by **Bobbie Rochow** » Thu Jan 18, 2007 9:35 pm

Where can I buy Fibroseal? And will any kind of Shellac do? What is a popular brand of Shellac to use? Sorry, I have to ask, tho.

Post by **Mike Jackson** » Thu Jan 18, 2007 10:00 pm

Bobbie,
If you haven't found it already, check out this page:

http://www.theletterheads.com/supplies/index.htm

Mike Jackson

Larry White · Post by **Larry White** » Fri Jan 19, 2007 10:47 am

Rick Glawson's article on shellac.

Also, search this site, you'll find a lot of information regarding shellac, types, and applications.

Bobbie Rochow · Post by **Bobbie Rochow** » Fri Jan 19, 2007 8:21 pm

Thank you all. Yes, i have searched this website & also the net & have found the things I need. I am excited to try these new things, but until I aquire them, I guess I will stick to blending with my brush, it is good practice anyway. I am going to study that beautiful S & maybe get an idea of how to shade my R!

Roderick Treece · Post by **Roderick Treece** » Fri Jan 19, 2007 8:29 pm

W. Blake,
I love the shadow on the Brewing co. sign.I wanna grow up to be just like you.
I don't remember that sign.Maybe you could give us a full veiw of it.

Your biggest fan

The Kid

www.customglasssigns.com

Larry White · Post by **Larry White** » Sat Jan 20, 2007 5:50 pm

SWM...

There you go.

...it's 58" x 40" in a frame done with "the kid" finish...

REVERSE GLASS PAINTING

REVERSE GLASS PAINTING

painting

Shellac?

Or this....