Welcome to The Hand Lettering Forum!
This is an interactive Bulletin Board on the topics of Sign making, design, fabrication, History, old Books and of coarse Letterheads, Keepers of the craft. The Hand Lettering Forum features links to resources, sign art history, techniques, and artists profiles. Learn more about Letterheads at https://theletterheads.com. Below you'll see Mchat has been added as a live communication portal for trial, and the Main forum Links are listed below.
This is an interactive Bulletin Board on the topics of Sign making, design, fabrication, History, old Books and of coarse Letterheads, Keepers of the craft. The Hand Lettering Forum features links to resources, sign art history, techniques, and artists profiles. Learn more about Letterheads at https://theletterheads.com. Below you'll see Mchat has been added as a live communication portal for trial, and the Main forum Links are listed below.
Wall behind a sandblasted mirror
Moderators: Ron Percell, Mike Jackson, Danny Baronian
Wall behind a sandblasted mirror
I have a mirror I'm going to be sandblasting that will go behind a bar. (second-surface) I've done this on mirrors before where I've painted or gilded the sandblasted areas. On this particular job, I am merely sandblasting the areas with the graphics and then leaving that as a frosted effect. The mirror will be mounted onto a painted wall.
The transluscent etched surface will, I imagine, allow some of the background wall to be seen. If there were dark & light areas behind the glass that would concern me but what we have here is a textured, cream-colored drywall surface.
I'm wondering if, in your experience, there is anything you would recommend I do behind it before it is mounted? Should the wall be painted white or put a smooth white surface rather than the texture? Does anyone have any experience with this either good or bad? I'm inclined to think it's OK as it is but I'd rather figure that out now than after the glazier installs it.
Thank, as always, for any advice.
The transluscent etched surface will, I imagine, allow some of the background wall to be seen. If there were dark & light areas behind the glass that would concern me but what we have here is a textured, cream-colored drywall surface.
I'm wondering if, in your experience, there is anything you would recommend I do behind it before it is mounted? Should the wall be painted white or put a smooth white surface rather than the texture? Does anyone have any experience with this either good or bad? I'm inclined to think it's OK as it is but I'd rather figure that out now than after the glazier installs it.
Thank, as always, for any advice.
-
- Posts: 1086
- Joined: Sat Apr 10, 2004 8:04 pm
- Location: San deigo Calif
- Contact:
Dan,
I would have thought it would be to cold to type out a post for you right now.
It's going to show what ever color is on the wall.If the texture is very light I think that would be ok.If the texture is heavy it will show a bit.Be carefull when mounting that you keep the mastic away from the blasting.
Roderick
I would have thought it would be to cold to type out a post for you right now.
It's going to show what ever color is on the wall.If the texture is very light I think that would be ok.If the texture is heavy it will show a bit.Be carefull when mounting that you keep the mastic away from the blasting.
Roderick
-
- Site Admin
- Posts: 638
- Joined: Wed Apr 07, 2004 2:16 am
- Contact:
Dan,
if you can, mount it away from the wall, the further the better. Flat on the wall will show any texture on the wall.
When I can I mount it in a thick frame to keep it off the wall, or use stand offs, but those entail exposed fasteners.
Take some of your blasted samples to the location and hold it to the wall, that will provide your best answer seeing the effect first hand under their lighting conditions. For that matter, try it on your shop wall.
Danny
I don't know what Roderick's problem is. Is it that cold in So Cal?
if you can, mount it away from the wall, the further the better. Flat on the wall will show any texture on the wall.
When I can I mount it in a thick frame to keep it off the wall, or use stand offs, but those entail exposed fasteners.
Take some of your blasted samples to the location and hold it to the wall, that will provide your best answer seeing the effect first hand under their lighting conditions. For that matter, try it on your shop wall.
Danny
I don't know what Roderick's problem is. Is it that cold in So Cal?
Thanks guys.
I think Roderick is referring to where I am (Northern Colorado) as opposed to where he is (Southern California.)
The mirror is 10' x 4' so I don't think I'll hold it up against my wall. Taking a sample to the job site is a good idea.
Someone else is mounting it so I'll discuss it with them and the owner once I take samples to the site.
I think Roderick is referring to where I am (Northern Colorado) as opposed to where he is (Southern California.)
The mirror is 10' x 4' so I don't think I'll hold it up against my wall. Taking a sample to the job site is a good idea.
Someone else is mounting it so I'll discuss it with them and the owner once I take samples to the site.
-
- Posts: 1213
- Joined: Thu Apr 08, 2004 4:18 am
Hey Marvin-
If you place a piece of sandblasted glass down on a newspaper, the frost pretty much disappears and you can read the newpaper through it. Stand it off a half inch and it blurs considerably. Stand it off an inch or so, you can't see it. So, if it's going right up against the wall, you will see the wall. You could back the graphic with white (or colored) paper, or foil, or whatever, right onto the back of the mirror surface. But anything you put that close to the etched surface will cause the etching to drop out. The space between the etched surface and whatever is behind it, in conjuction with the lighting, is what will get the etched surface to show. If it's gotta go right up to the wall, you might as well block in a color over the etched graphic.
...I know, it's just the way it is....
-WB
If you place a piece of sandblasted glass down on a newspaper, the frost pretty much disappears and you can read the newpaper through it. Stand it off a half inch and it blurs considerably. Stand it off an inch or so, you can't see it. So, if it's going right up against the wall, you will see the wall. You could back the graphic with white (or colored) paper, or foil, or whatever, right onto the back of the mirror surface. But anything you put that close to the etched surface will cause the etching to drop out. The space between the etched surface and whatever is behind it, in conjuction with the lighting, is what will get the etched surface to show. If it's gotta go right up to the wall, you might as well block in a color over the etched graphic.
...I know, it's just the way it is....
-WB
-
- Site Admin
- Posts: 638
- Joined: Wed Apr 07, 2004 2:16 am
- Contact:
William Blake,
Your straight shootin' is makin' this marshall feel low and mean.
I'm scratchin my bald head askin why I can't fit a square peg in a round hole?
Truth be told, this is just what the doc ordered as I'm fixin' to do this right first time.
Now I think I'll git back to readin' my newspaper through that etched glass. Hmmm, I see a job opening in the town of Machine.
Much obliged,
Marvin
Your straight shootin' is makin' this marshall feel low and mean.
I'm scratchin my bald head askin why I can't fit a square peg in a round hole?
Truth be told, this is just what the doc ordered as I'm fixin' to do this right first time.
Now I think I'll git back to readin' my newspaper through that etched glass. Hmmm, I see a job opening in the town of Machine.
Much obliged,
Marvin
-
- Site Admin
- Posts: 1705
- Joined: Tue Apr 06, 2004 11:02 pm
- Location: Jackson Hole, WY
- Contact:
Dan,
Just a thought. Try putting another mirror right behind it. I am guessing it might reflect some light back through the frost and negate any texture or background concerns. It would be easy enough to try in the shop.
Mike Jackson
Just a thought. Try putting another mirror right behind it. I am guessing it might reflect some light back through the frost and negate any texture or background concerns. It would be easy enough to try in the shop.
Mike Jackson
Mike Jackson / co-administrator
Golden Era Studios
Vintage Ornamental Clip art
Jackson Hole, WY
Photography site:
Teton Images
Jackson Hole photography blog:
Best of the Tetons
Golden Era Studios
Vintage Ornamental Clip art
Jackson Hole, WY
Photography site:
Teton Images
Jackson Hole photography blog:
Best of the Tetons
Mike,
The second mirror behind it is a nice choice. Trying it in my shop, it does reflect light back through the frosted glass and it also, because of the thickness of the second mirror, creates that off-set effect that Danny & Larry were referring to. Thus, instead of "reading the newspaper" through the frost or having the frosted effect deadened by being right up against a surface, the luminosity is enhanced.
Of course, the added expense of a second mirror may not be something they want to do but I'll bring it up to them.
Thanks to everyone for your input. I always learn so much on this forum.
Dan
The second mirror behind it is a nice choice. Trying it in my shop, it does reflect light back through the frosted glass and it also, because of the thickness of the second mirror, creates that off-set effect that Danny & Larry were referring to. Thus, instead of "reading the newspaper" through the frost or having the frosted effect deadened by being right up against a surface, the luminosity is enhanced.
Of course, the added expense of a second mirror may not be something they want to do but I'll bring it up to them.
Thanks to everyone for your input. I always learn so much on this forum.
Dan
-
- Posts: 1086
- Joined: Sat Apr 10, 2004 8:04 pm
- Location: San deigo Calif
- Contact:
Dan,
Truth be told I would be careful gluing one mirror to another.The only failure I have had so far with doing mirroring was when a customer glued two mirrors back to back.Within two weeks they could see the mastic spots on the front of the mirror.It was due to the fact that there wasn't anywhere for the solvent in the adhesive to go but into the backing paint.
If you could install both mirrors in a frame without using glue that would be a great look though.
Roderick
Truth be told I would be careful gluing one mirror to another.The only failure I have had so far with doing mirroring was when a customer glued two mirrors back to back.Within two weeks they could see the mastic spots on the front of the mirror.It was due to the fact that there wasn't anywhere for the solvent in the adhesive to go but into the backing paint.
If you could install both mirrors in a frame without using glue that would be a great look though.
Roderick
-
- Site Admin
- Posts: 1705
- Joined: Tue Apr 06, 2004 11:02 pm
- Location: Jackson Hole, WY
- Contact:
We did this effect a long time ago on the White Buffalo project. We had a 4x6 piece with deep etching, glue chipping, paint and gold. The back mirror was put in first, then cushioned with some small felt sticky backed pads around the painted borders. They were stuck to the front of the back mirror and the felt was against the painted back side of the front glass. The back mirror only needed to be single thickness while the front glass was 1/4" plate.
On some similar projects, we also added an extra step in which we painted the back of the front mirror WHITE before working on it. That reflected the white into the backing mirror instead of dark gray.
Mike Jackson
On some similar projects, we also added an extra step in which we painted the back of the front mirror WHITE before working on it. That reflected the white into the backing mirror instead of dark gray.
Mike Jackson
Mike Jackson / co-administrator
Golden Era Studios
Vintage Ornamental Clip art
Jackson Hole, WY
Photography site:
Teton Images
Jackson Hole photography blog:
Best of the Tetons
Golden Era Studios
Vintage Ornamental Clip art
Jackson Hole, WY
Photography site:
Teton Images
Jackson Hole photography blog:
Best of the Tetons